Makes four 6-ounce servings

This cocoa gains extra body from the addition of cornstarch. When you surprise your family with a vacuum bottle full of the stuff, you don't have to tell anyone what makes it so good.

1/4 cup dark (European-style) cocoa powder
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 pinch (about 1/16 of a teaspoon) salt
1/3 cup water
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Put the cocoa powder, brown sugar, cornstarch and salt in a saucepan and stir with a whisk to mix. Add the water and whisk until smooth. Put the pot on a burner over high heat and continue whisking until the mixture comes to a full, rolling boil.

2. Gradually stream in the milk, whisking all the while. While adding the milk, keep the mixture hot and steamy, just below the boil.