Once, years ago, I went shopping for new basketball shoes. They were my first in some time, and it must have showed, because as we were talking about the latest fashions, the saleswoman said, "You're not still wearing your socks pulled up, are you?"

Footie, ankle, bobby, crew, tube, mid-calf, over-the-calf or knee-high, socks may be the most overlooked item of exercise clothing.

They also make great gifts (provided they're not the only gift), particularly ones with price tags that make warehouse 12-pair-a-pack shoppers like me blanch.

REI, for one, sells walking socks, running socks, cycling socks, skiing socks, cross-country socks, snowboard socks, hiking socks, backpacking socks, light-trail socks, trail-running socks and even sandal socks. The Thorlo company of North Carolina makes many of those plus ones for tennis, golf, basketball, fitness walking and inline skating.

Do such specialized socks really make a difference?

"If you'd asked me that five years ago, I would have said no," says Dr. Julia Overstreet, a Bellevue podiatrist. But many companies now have research to support claims that fabrics, padding and other factors can help some socks rise above others. Thorlo bases its popular socks on seven factors: moisture, pressure, shear, circulation, temperature, posture and stimulus.

Overstreet's least favorite sock fabric is cotton. "From an economic sense, they just don't wear as long. From a health standpoint, cotton socks hold onto moisture, which is more likely to give you athlete's foot or other infections." Cotton socks also tend to have a thicker weave, which can be uncomfortable for those with tender feet. "Really, a blend is the best. They're more padded and the weave is more resilient, it doesn't flatten out."

Differentiating between blends is trickier, Overstreet says. "Every time I read an article about that, it says something different."

Fiber blend and weave help decrease shear. "The two fibers shear against each other instead of the foot, so the sock absorbs the motion side to side without making the foot do it."

Socks with flat-seamed toes feel better to many people and can be especially appreciated by those with diabetes (who may have numb feet, which need to avoid undetected rubbing) or fibromyalgia (who often have ultra-sensitive feet). Socks that wick away moisture also can be helpful.

My favorite socks are Jobst, which I initially found at a sporting-goods store. If I'd known they were compression socks, I might not have given them a try. The way they hugged my arches and ankles made them my sock of preference, even when I had to special-order them.

Medical-grade compression socks — useful for vein and swelling problems — have gradient compression, tighter at the ankle and easing up the leg. The mild Jobsts I favor go from 8 to 15 millimeters of mercury pressure (MMP) and retail for around $18; extra firm range from 30 to 40 MMP and waist-high ones can run $120.

Foot supplies are featured at SockDoctor (4411 Wallingford Ave. N., Seattle; 206-675-0539; www.sockdoctor.com), a new expansion of a mini-store in Overstreet's office. (Other Jobst retailers can be found via www.jobst.com; Thorlos via www.thorlo.com.)

Even some people with sports injuries benefit from compression socks, Overstreet says. "With ankle sprains, the small nerves that help with proprioception — the ability to know where your foot is when your eyes are closed — are the first ones to be torn." Compression socks give the brain more feedback about where the foot is in space. Another new type of sock has 1/4-inch gel material imbedded in the sole, for even more cushioning for sore feet.

Overstreet is not sold, however, on socks with purported antibacterial or antifungal properties.

"If it lasts through two washings, I'd be surprised." Regular socks are just fine, she says. "They just need to change them more often."

Or folks could follow in the footsteps of my former boss. He never washed his socks. It wasn't a problem, however, olfactorily speaking. He simply threw away used socks — and bought new ones.

Molly Martin is assistant editor of Pacific Northwest magazine. She can be reached at 206-464-8243, mmartin@seattletimes.com or P.O. Box 70, Seattle, WA 98111.

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