A simple lassi can be dressed up with many different flavorings. At Golkonda restaurant in Bellevue, a variety of choices are available, including, from left: A soothing lemon lassi seasoned with salt and sprinkled with roasted ground cumin; mango garnished with saffron; a savory Madras lassi flavored with mustard, curry and cumin; and a rose-water lassi laced with a hint of food coloring to create the pleasantly pink shade.

It's the obvious joke, of course. And Goldie, director of food and nutrition education at PCC Natural Markets, knows perfectly well what lassi is - a yogurt-based, Middle Eastern beverage most likely found in Indian and Nepalese restaurants. Lassi is the North Indian name; it's called ayran by the Turks and Arabs, abdug by the Iranians and laban by the Jordanians. In the hot climates of that part of the globe, lassi is a cooling drink unique for the digestive and health benefits it provides.

In restaurants, lassi is served as a pre-dinner drink or an accompaniment to a meal. A sweet lassi, especially a mango lassi, may be ordered as a light dessert. Made at home, lassi can also be a quick breakfast, a nourishing snack or a refreshing, nonalcoholic pick-me-up at the end of a tiring day.

Few people realize how versatile lassi is or how easy it is to make. Lassi recipes in cookbooks usually call for adding milk or cream to the yogurt, as well as ice, and for using a blender. But lassi can be made just as well by simply mixing yogurt and water in a large bowl with a whisk or - for one person, in a mug with a small whisk. Not only is there less to clean up, but this method is closer to the beverage's humble origins.

Various seasonings can then be added to create savory or sweet versions. Lassi is perhaps the simplest of the currently popular probiotic beverages that provide several healthful effects. Lassi differs from another traditional probiotic beverage, kefir, in that a true kefir is created from milk by a naturally occurring colony of bacteria and yeast.

Because of lassi's simple composition, the yogurt used to make it has a tremendous influence on its taste and texture, as well as on its health benefits (see sidebar).

We usually think of yogurt as being made of cow's milk, but depending on the region of the world, yogurt may be made with the milk of the cow, water buffalo, sheep, goat, camel or yak. In India and Sri Lanka, yogurt is made from buffalo milk in unglazed earthenware bowls, which absorb some of the liquid from the yogurt. The result is a thicker, richer, sweeter yogurt than the product we are familiar with. Some Indian cookbooks recommend adding a little cream to lassi to approximate the South Asian yogurt. Those who make yogurt at home can come close to it by using whole milk enriched with milk powder.

I find that Nancy's Honey Yogurt, made from whole milk a little honey added to take away the acidic edge, makes a fine lassi. Comparable yogurts are available at local natural-food stores, which carry a range of yogurts, including those made with goat milk (for those who don't digest cow's milk well) and soy milk (for vegans and those with dairy allergies). Lassi can be made from all of these. However, the taste and texture will vary, and the seasonings may need to be adjusted to create a pleasing flavor.

Choosing a quality yogurt

Yogurt is created when two strains of bacteria culture the milk, imparting the characteristic, slightly sour taste. These bacteria break down most of the lactose in milk to lactic acid, whose acidity coagulates the milk. This process enables yogurt to be tolerated better by many who are lactose intolerant. The bacteria also partly break down the milk protein, casein, making yogurt easier to digest than milk. The two bacteria do not remain long in the body, so other strains of bacteria are often added. These strains create longer-lasting health benefits, including promoting digestion.

The friendly bacteria in yogurt are heat-sensitive and therefore destroyed by high temperature. So it is only in uncooked dishes, such as lassi, that yogurt's health benefits are preserved.

When buying yogurt, check that it has been made with live or active cultures, because the health benefits of yogurt come from this friendly bacteria. Also look at the list of ingredients to see if stabilizers or thickeners have been used. Nancy Hamren of Nancy's Yogurt in Eugene, Ore., explains that ideally only bacterial culture is used to transform and thicken milk into yogurt. This is the way yogurt has been made traditionally, and though it takes longer, it provides a greater concentration of healthful bacteria. In some brands of yogurt, this process is shortened by the use stabilizers such as gelatin or pectin that thicken the product.

Another aspect to consider is whether the milk used to make the yogurt is organic. Brands made from organic milk are free of antibiotics, added bovine growth hormone, or pesticide residue.

Just for fun, mix it up with a variety of ingredients

Mixing and flavoring lassi depends entirely on personal preference. Half the fun lies in experimenting. The proportion of yogurt to water, which may be room temperature or chilled, can vary from more than one-third to one-half. The greater the proportion of yogurt, the thicker and more substantial the drink. If the lassi is for a snack, a one-half or higher proportion of yogurt is desirable. If you're making the drink to go with a meal, you can reduce the proportion of yogurt to a third. If serving lassi over crushed ice or ice cubes, a proportion higher than one-half may be necessary.

To sweeten lassi, try honey or Florida Crystals, the less-processed pure cane juice available at natural-food stores. If using honey, you will need to dilute it in a little warm water first because honey will not dissolve readily into the cool lassi.

Plain Lassi According to many Indian cookbooks, whole-milk yogurt makes the best plain lassi. With other yogurts, some people may wish to add a little sweetener or salt. A sprig of mint or an edible flower adds an artistic touch. Mint This is the classic Persian lassi. Finely mince a few leaves of fresh mint and mix well into plain lassi. You can also steep sprigs of fresh mint in boiling water and use this liquid, once it has cooled, to dilute the yogurt. Sweeten or salt as desired. Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint. Pistachio-Honey Sweeten plain lassi with honey (try an interesting honey such as wildflower) and mix in some finely chopped or ground pistachios.

Cardamom-Rose Water To a serving of plain lassi, add a small pinch of cardamom powder and 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon rose water. Open the cardamom pods by placing on a cutting board and pressing with the flat side of a knife handle. Remove the seeds and use a small mortar and pestle to pulverize. Sweeten the lassi, if desired. Garnish with one or a few organic (unsprayed) rose petals, if available. Mango This is most people's favorite. Try equal parts yogurt, mango pulp and water for a thicker dessert drink. Try 1/4 part each of mango pulp and yogurt to 1/2 part water for a more fluid mango lassi. Mango pulp is available at Indian specialty stores and is usually pre-sweetened, so no further sweetening may be needed. Taste and add more sweetener if desired. Grate some fresh nutmeg on each serving. Other Fruit In a blender, mix one kind of fruit with plain lassi. Sweeten to taste. Try banana or peach and sprinkle a little cardamom powder on each serving. Try strawberries with real maple syrup.

Savory To plain lassi, add a pinch of ground cumin or ground black pepper and a squirt of lemon juice. Mix well and salt to taste. (For proportions, try 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon cumin and a pinch of black pepper for two servings of lassi.) Another combination is ground cumin and fennel seeds; the fennel should be 1/3 or 1/4 of the mixture. Try adding a little ginger juice. Chop some fresh, peeled ginger, gather inside a ball of cheesecloth, and squeeze. All these ingredients are known for promoting digestion. Note: The cumin and fennel seeds may be roasted for stronger flavor and aroma. Put a small skillet on medium heat and toast the whole spice, shaking the skillet frequently. When you can smell the spice, immediately remove the pan from the heat and grind the seeds in a mortar and pestle or coffee/spice grinder reserved for spices. A peppery nasturtium blossom would be a suitable garnish for a savory lassi.

Andrew Jayasundera is a publications specialist and freelance food writer. Barry Wong is a staff photographer for Pacific Northwest magazine.