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Originally published Friday, August 8, 2014 at 6:17 AM

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Via Tribunali: Fremont pizzeria is molta deliziosa

Fresh, wood-fired pizzas in an atmospheric Fremont setting make Via Tribunali in Fremont a good late evening stop if you’re craving a pie.


Seattle Times theater critic

Via Tribunali (Fremont)

Pizza

4303 Fremont Ave. N. Seattle, 98103 206-547-2144www.viatribunali.net

Hours: 4-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 4 p.m.-12 a.m. Friday-Saturday

Etc: accepts major credit cards; no barriers to access; street parking

Prices: $$

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Craving good pizza at night, in the sleepier north end of Fremont? One easy option is to hit the neighborhood branch of Via Tribunali, the chain of wood-fired pizza emporiums that also has branches on Capitol Hill, Queen Anne, in Georgetown, Portland and even New York City.

The spacious Fremont spot has romantic lighting and a semi-medieval wrought-iron-and-lantern look that seems more Spanish than Italian, but what the heck. It’s kind of cool and the pizza is excellent.

The menu: Gourmet pizzas and calzones are the main event here, with molto fresco veggies, meats and cheeses, thin and nicely charred crusts. And while the pies are a little pricey you may feel satisfied with fewer slices than usual. There’s also an assortment of appetizers, salads and desserts ($6-$15) and an impressive wine list. The happy-hour deals (4-6 p.m. and 10 p.m. to close) feature several kinds of $5 pizzas.

What to write home about: We were impressed with the three 12-inch pizzas we tried on a late-evening weeknight. The Primavera ($15) was adorned with fresh mozzarella, arugula, basil and grana parmesano, but it was the fresh, sweet cherry tomatoes in lieu of sauce that made it memorable. The Capricciosa ($16) was swathed with savory pomodoro sauce, topped with mozzarella, prosciutto cotta, and sprinklings of roasted mushrooms, artichokes and tiny, pitted black olives. The Spaccanapoli ($16) was similar to the Primavera ricotta, with the addition of some of the creamiest, richest ricotta we’ve tasted. (Add some prosciutto di Parma, for $2.50.)

The setting: An authentic wood-fired pizza oven with a blazing fire greets you, in a spacious room that’s dimly lit and rustic-romantic, with a well-stocked bar, wooden booths and tables and a communal table that seats up to 20.

Summing up: The three pizzas came to $49.50, before tax and tip, and fed three well, or four lightly.



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