I'm a creature of habit, so it was only a matter of time before my favorite taco-truck operator began throwing carne asada on the grill the minute he saw me pull up.

But a woman can't live on steak alone, and I'm thankful for Casa Guerrero for reminding me what I've been missing.

Tucked away in a strip mall on a busy main drag in Lynnwood, Casa Guerrero transcends its location, delivering fresh-tasting fare that evokes Mexico's Pacific Coast, where seafood is a staple and charcoal is king.

Casa Guerrero mostly forgoes heavy sauces and fiery spices for lighter flavors that bring out the best in such staples as smoky pork tacos with tomatillo sauce, and charbroiled chicken. They even managed to cook a spinach enchilada that two carnivores could enjoy. And if you want fire in your belly or a good steak, they've got you covered.

The menu: Enough variety that you could eat here regularly for weeks without ordering the same thing. Appetizers, some large enough for a meal, include chorizo quesadilla ($7.25) and mini-chimichangas (beef or chicken for $7.95). Entrees include such staples as tamales, enchiladas and flautas (each $9.99), beef or chicken burrito ($9.99), enchiladas with sweet and spicy mole sauce ($9.99) and Pollo Acapulco (charbroiled chicken with sauteed spinach and cheese for $12.99). Three different grilled shrimp dishes ($15.99), and whole broiled red snapper ($17.99) represent the pricer end of the menu. All dishes come with rice, beans, soup or salad.

What to write home about: Lunch specials, available Monday through Friday, are a steal at $6.99 and include classic Mexican egg dishes such as huevos rancheros, and scaled-down versions of the dinner offerings, served with rice, beans and soup. Also, try the mini-chicken chimichanga appetizer served with guacamole and sour cream.

The setting: A clean, cozy and casual space painted in soothing ocher tones.

Summing up Mini-chimichangas with chicken ($7.95); trio of pork tacos ($8.99), spinach enchiladas ($9.99) and bottomless soda ($1.99) came to $37, including tax and tip. Enough left over for dinner!

Susan Kelleher: 206-464-2508 or skelleher@seattletimes.com. On Twitter @susankelleher.