For all the changes in Belltown, this barhopping hood is still more about happy hour than dinner, the bar food meant more to fortify a couple rounds of cocktails.

So what a pleasant surprise it was to stumble onto The Innkeeper, an unpretentious place, with unfussy food. And of course this being Belltown, The Innkeeper also runs a decent cocktail program.

The menu: It's Caribbean and South American inspired fare, the comfort food ranging from ceviche to Jamaican jerk pork spareribs (from $5-$15), along with the usual bar food done with a South American accent.

What to write home about: The fall-of-the-bone Jamaican jerk pork spareribs are a beauty. Charred and smoky, they come in a huge portion, cut nicely with a refreshing side of jicama mango salad. It's a good deal at $11.

Your best after-Belltown-bar-crawl grub is here: the Cuban sandwich ($9), salty and meaty, with a tinge of sourness from pickled peppers. The bread is about perfect — crispy exterior with a light, spongy interior to absorb the pork flavor and mayo. Two good side options: the meaty green chili with a subtle but lingering heat, and some crunchy, deep-fried plantain chips.

What to skip: The Spicy Caribbean Goat Curry with peas and rice ($15) doesn't live up to its name, lacking both heat and curry. The smoked chicken drumettes didn't go down easy — too dry.

The setting: The minimal décor gives little hint of what cuisine is featured here. There's a comfy back patio that's underutilized. It's just about perfect on a sunny day with a Guatemalan lager. Service is friendly, though it can get slow when busy.

Summing up: Two entrees, the goat curry and the spareribs, with appetizers including two beef skewers ($1.50 each), plantain chips, smoked chicken drumettes and three empanadas ($8) were $49.27, enough to feed at least two. The Innkeeper is a 21-and-over establishment.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com. On Twitter @tanvinhseattle