A meal of fish and chips is not exactly a health-food banquet, but with fresh, local ingredients and a light hand at the fryer, it certainly can be a wickedly satisfying, moderately priced and less-guilt-inducing repast.

The Five Fish Bistro on Capitol Hill (at the north end of the Broadway commercial strip) offers just such fare, with extra amenities: a small, casual but very pleasant dining room, an attentive staff and a mix tape of great blues and R&B classics playing in the background.

As the name implies, a mission of this eatery is to offer five different kinds of fried fish and seafood with seasonally changing specials, as well as salads, sandwiches and more. The cost is a bit higher than a greasy-spoon type of fish-and-chips joint, but the ample portions, swift service and quality control justify it.

The menu: An array of seafood (cod, salmon, catfish, shrimp, etc.) dipped in well-seasoned batter (gluten-free available) and fried to a golden crisp in peanut oil ($8.75-$10.75) are the front-line choices. But there are also five kinds of po'boy sandwiches available ($8.75-$10.50) as well as fish tacos, soup, salads and, for the hard-core, appetizers of tempura bacon ($4.25) and deep-fried pickles ($3.25).

What to write home about: The two-piece Alaska cod fish and chips ($8.75) is a melt-in-your-mouth, savory staple, served with excellent tartar sauce — or if you'd prefer, ranch, chili mayo or lemon-garlic aioli sauces. The oyster po'boy sandwich ($9.25), with lightly breaded local oysters packed into a French roll with lettuce, pickles, tomato and tartar sauce, is an oozing, three-napkin treat. Both come with a mound of perfectly cooked and salted potato fries.

An optional addition is a very generous serving of hearty cabbage slaw ($2.25). But don't overlook the first-rate Northwest-style clam chowder, redolent of bacon and pepper ($5.75). Or, for dessert, the fresh-from-the-stove beignets ($4.25).

The setting: Hip, clean, easygoing with blond-wood tables and chairs, wall art and great music. You order at the counter, but the food is delivered to your table by solicitous young staffers.

Summing up: One order each of clam chowder, cabbage slaw, cod fish and chips, an oyster po'boy, shrimp and chips, beignets and a soft drink came to $41.25, before tax and tip.

Misha Berson:

mberson@seattletimes.com