The smell of charbroiled burgers wafting out the worn metal glass door and a lunchtime crowd bursting at the seams were positive signs in this hidden gem off downtown Bellevue's bustling Main Street.

Owners Ahmad and Robbie Pirhadi have greeted customers with a smile since they opened in 1989, and have survived the test of time by surrounding high-end gourmet burger establishments and fast-food chains.

Don't let the outdated décor — rickety, plastic deck chairs and tables outside; and uneven linoleum floors along with mismatched chairs and tables inside — steer you in the wrong direction because this eatery serves up a decent burger and more.

Prices are reasonable for a quarter-pound burger with all the fixings, and it comes with mayonnaise, ketchup, lettuce, onions and tomato.

Upgrading any burger to a combo meal with French fries or onion rings, and a drink or milkshake ($2 extra), is a worthwhile deal.

After a successful run on the Eastside, the Pirhadis opened a second Broiler Bay with a drive-thru on April 1 at 15226 Aurora Ave. N. in Shoreline.

The menu: Thirteen varieties of burgers from a mushroom and Swiss cheese; chili; Hawaiian and Swiss; avocado and Swiss; to a grilled onion cheeseburger. They also have a grilled chicken sandwich, fish or chicken strips and chips, and hot 8-inch sub sandwiches.

What to write home about: The bacon cheeseburger ($4.80), mushroom Swiss burger ($4.70) and pastrami Swiss burger ($4.80) were our favorites. Deep-fried mushrooms and zucchini are lightly breaded and flavorful. The secret dipping "Fry Sauce" (no charge) is a must-have for any side dish. It has a spicy kick, but not overwhelming for those with sensitive taste buds. Another must-have are the old-fashioned hard ice-cream milk-

shakes and malts.

The setting: An all-glass entryway opens up to a counter with a full view of the server flipping burgers on the grill. Seats 30-plus customers with nine tables.

Summing up: Bacon cheeseburger combo with strawberry milkshake ($9.99); junior cheeseburger combo with pineapple milkshake ($6.89); hamburger ($3.39); chicken strip basket ($6.92); and deep-fried mushrooms ($2.99) came to $30.18, not including tax.

Mark Yuasa: 206-464-8780 or myuasa@seattletimes.com