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Originally published Friday, March 16, 2012 at 5:30 AM

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Dining Deal

The Burgundian Tavern: Cheers to breakfast, beer in Tangletown

The Burgundian Tavern in Tangletown offers a quirky menu and stout beer list — 22 draft beers and 60-some craft beer cans. The beer — from Damnation Golden and Profanity Hill Porter to Rapture Heather and Biere du Soleil — is the reason to come. The food is a reason to stay.

Seattle Times staff reporter

The Burgundian Tavern

Bar food

2253 N. 56th St., Seattle

206-420-8943

www.facebook.com/TheBurgundianTavern

Hours: 10 a.m.-midnight Monday-Thursday and Sunday; 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday and Saturday

Etc: Credit cards, except for American Express; no obstacles to access; street parking, but it is limited; full bar

Prices: $-$$

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Seattle is a garden in spring for serious beer nerds, and the Tangletown neighborhood is in bloom. The Burgundian Tavern, owned by the Belgium-beer-centric Brouwer's Café, is now open just blocks from Elysian Brewing's Tangletown pub.

The Burgundian Tavern opened briefly as The Publican, then was re-branded. Regardless of the name, its quirky menu and stout beer list — 22 draft beers and 60-some craft beer cans — make it a walkable luxury tucked into the single-family-home carpet around Green Lake.

It is not a family oasis, to my disappointment. But the beer — from Damnation Golden and Profanity Hill Porter to Rapture Heather and Biere du Soleil — is the reason to come. The food is a reason to stay.

The menu: Breakfast is the focus, and served all day, as if the menu is written for the hangover you may have the next day if you love the beer too much. A pork-belly starter ($9.50) is a crisp-but-tender, three-quarter-inch slab of bacon. Poutine ($9) is an inspired Canadian touch. The Southern Tier 2x IPA ($5) complements a merguez-spiced lamb burger ($12.50), one of a solid selection of burgers and sandwiches.

What to write home about: The bourbon maple syrup, served with Burgundian's signature chicken and waffles ($15). The tender, battered free-range chicken swimming in herbed gravy is just an excuse to dip in the syrup. The herbed Yukon potato side to most breakfasts had just the right amount of crisp.

What to skip: The Publican breakfast ($12) was a flat, cheesy slab of eggs, except for the caramelized onions.

The setting: A casual gastro-pub ambience. The high wood booths and new maple bar, well stocked for the non-beer lover, hummed with couples and foursomes on a recent night.

Summing it up: Two entrees and a poutine appetizer came to $48. But you're going to want to linger over a Laughing Dog or a Quiet-Rye It or two.

Jonathan Martin: 206-464-2605 or jmartin@seattletimes.com. On Twitter @jmartin206.

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