When the original owners of Table 219 decided to move on, fans of the popular Capitol Hill bistro had no reason to fret. Chef and co-owner Jeffrey Wilson bought them out and kept the informal décor.

He's retained some favorite dishes but has revamped a menu that puts his own deft touch on American comfort food, offering mainly small plates rather than big entrees, a sweet and savory daily brunch, and scrumptious desserts ranging from carrot-cake lollipops to a doughnut a la mode.

You can feed well for a modest price in this cozy, friendly boîte, as we did on one recent evening. Or just drop in to nibble on delicious snacks while sipping a cocktail.

The menu: One could easily make a meal of the smaller plates here, including a chopped salad ($7) with beets, cucumber, tomato, bell peppers and a delicious lime-cumin dressing; sweet potato fries ($5); and creamy roasted tomato soup with grilled cheese croutons ($6). The more substantial medium and larger plates range from wild boar enchiladas with ancho-hibiscus sauce ($12); to a juicy lamb burger with crisp potato fries and excellent tzatziki dressing ($14); and crabcakes with apple-celery slaw ($15).

What to write home about: The divinely rich and ample mac 'n' cheese, served bubbling hot in a mini-casserole pot. You can order it in the traditional version ($6), or with such fine enhancements as mushrooms and truffle oil ($9), or pancetta and fontina ($8).

What to skip: Though the concept sounded great, the roast garlic and bacon deviled eggs ($6) were too heavily seasoned.

The setting: A narrow, casually romantic room with dark walls, muted lighting, small tables, a stamped tin ceiling and a compact bar. The place is inviting and unpretentiously hip.

Summing up: A chopped salad, an order of deviled eggs, a lamb burger, a mac 'n' cheese and two desserts (a milkshake, and a pineapple crisp with coconut ice cream) was more than enough for two, and came to $51.46 with tax.