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Originally published Friday, December 30, 2011 at 5:31 AM

Dining Deal

Pan African Grill burns bright in West Seattle

Dining Deal review: Pan Africa Grill is the new West Seattle casual-dining spot from the folks behind Pan Africa Restaurant & Bar in Pike Place Market.

Seattle Times staff reporter

Pan Africa Grill

African

5905 California Ave. S.W. (West Seattle)

206-971-0698

Hours:

5-9 p.m. on Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday; 5-10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Plans to start serving brunch on weekends sometime in January.

Etc: Visa and MasterCard accepted; no obstacles to access. Parking in back and street parking. Alcohol permit pending.

Prices: $-$$

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Pan Africa Grill is the new West Seattle casual dining spot from the folks behind Pan Africa Restaurant & Bar in Pike Place Market.

This is a meat-grilled-on-an-open-flame joint. Look for more appetizers, shared plates and kebabs in coming weeks, a nod to the street-food and small-plate trend.

The menu: Food is mostly Ethiopian and West African cuisine, though part of the menu will rotate with fare from Morocco, Senegal and other African countries.

They grill a mean chicken. The kitchen also does some slow-cooked chicken, lamb and goat. Appetizers range from $6-$7, entrees $11-$23.95.

What to write home about: The chicken, marinated in lemon and cilantro, is grilled to a smokey finish. Juicy, too. Order a "quarter chicken ($11.95), a half chicken ($16.95) or a whole ($23.95). Each order comes with a choice of two sides. Also tasty is the Doro Wott ($13), pieces of fall-off-the-bone-tender chicken simmered with garlic, onions and red pepper. The entree comes with sides of collard greens, lentils and the Ethiopian bread injera.

What to skip: Nine side dishes are on offer, mostly greens and starches. The cilantro-coconut mashed potatoes we selected were overcooked and gummy; the Harissa Mac and Cheese was neither gooey nor cheesy.

The setting: The place is dimly lit, with African paintings and hand-carved art. R&B plays in the background. There are two dining rooms, which will include a full bar in the back after the restaurant gets its liquor license early next year.

Summing up: An order of a half chicken, curry goat and the Ethiopian chicken dish totaled $43.95, enough food for two to three people. Prices are comparable to the downtown location. Opened in October, Pan Africa Grill also offers a larger food selection.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com. On Twitter @tanvinhseattle.

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