Meander's Kitchen: Comfort food offered at this quirky West Seattle diner
Traditional and inspired comfort food is on the menu at Meander's Kitchen in West Seattle.
Seattle Times staff reporter
6032 California Ave. S.W., Seattle
Hours: 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday and also 10 p.m. to 4 a.m. Friday and Saturday
Etc: Cash only. Long waits on weekends. Best time is late morning.
Before you fall in love with Meander's Kitchen, a quirky West Seattle diner with a devoted following, you need to embrace a paradox: Meander's cares deeply, and it couldn't care less.
Owner/chef Miranda Krone runs a comfort-food operation that is best experienced on its own terms. Krone and her co-conspirators will fill your belly with deliciousness, and give you time and space to relax and enjoy it. In return, you need to cool your heels.
There are no too-eager servers here looking to turn over tables. No fancy furniture. Not even a sign: They're still using the old one from Jade West, a Chinese restaurant which previously occupied the space.
What you will find is hearty food, good humor and a palpable sense that Krone is doing what she wants, in the way she wants. In these dark times, that's worth celebrating over breakfast.
The menu: Traditional and inspired breakfast offerings, ranging from eggs with choice of potatoes and meat (or veggie sausage), and toast or biscuit ($8.50) to Afton's Hot Mess ($8.50), a medley of andouille sausage, black beans, onion, broccoli and spinach with eggs, chipotle sour cream, salsa and avocado served over cheese grits. The aptly named Decadence ($9.25 and available Friday, Saturday and Sunday) is basically eggs Benedict served on vanilla bourbon-battered challah French toast. Other fabulous offerings range in price from $7.50 to $8.75. Krone also cooks to order and can make many of the dishes vegan.
What to write home about: The French toast ($8), and the biscuits with sausage gravy ($7). Rich, complex and perfectly peppered, the gravy is wrong in all the right ways.
What to skip: The lines on weekends, especially if you're really hungry or dining with young kids.
The setting: A cross between greasy-spoon and your funky friend's kitchen. An L-shaped counter with eight stools provides a front-row view of the cooking action. Table seating for 24 in groups of two or four.
Summing up: Breakfast for three — corned beef hash ($8.50) smothered in gravy ($2), sweet-potato latkes with caramelized onion and apple compote ($8), Chloe's scramble with three eggs, spinach, ham and cheddar ($8.25), and coffee — came to $39.67 with tax and tip. Note: Meander's is cash only.
Susan Kelleher: 206-464-2508 or firstname.lastname@example.org
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