Queen Margherita, the boutique Neapolitan pizzeria in Magnolia, has the trappings of an upscale hangout for the upscale neighborhood. At the center of the open kitchen is a wood-fired oven imported from Naples, and reclaimed artisan light fixtures glow over a colonnaded archway hunkered in the dining area.

The pizza — gourmet fixings on quick-cooked thin crust — reflects the ambition. Think: truffle oil, dates and Italian speck prosciutto as toppings.

The prices reflect ambition, too, but the pies rival any in the city's booming Neapolitan pizzerias.

The menu: Queen Margherita does not skimp on portions. The small mista salad ($7), which had walnut-size chunks of Gorgonzola, fed two. The pizzas, designed to feed one hungry diner, were big and loaded enough to result in leftovers. For kids, there are bambino pies ($6 for cheese, $7 with pepperoni).

What to write home about: The Dattero pizza ($16) featured dates crisped in the oven, giving the caramelly sweetness a pleasing texture. Add balsamic reduction and Gorgonzola and the pie was sublime. The Funghi ($14) was dotted with button and portobello mushrooms, and with the added option of speck and buffalo mozzarella ($3), it amounted to a food adventure.

What to skip: The olive-plate appetizer ($7) was accompanied by olive oil lightly flavored with chili oil. Delicious, but it came with a skimpy serving of crusty bread.

The setting: Queen Margherita is an elegantly designed but friendly space, with a roll-up garage door, easy parking and a long counter that was populated during a recent visit by a pair of kindergarten-age girls munching pizza below a flat-screen TV. But to qualify as a kid-friendly joint in a neighborhood full of families, the server shouldn't have to be asked twice to bring crayons and dough for my children.

Summing up: Without alcohol or tip, dinner for two — two pizzas, a salad and appetizer — came to $55, with ample leftovers.

Jonathan Martin: 206-464-2605 or jmartin@seattletimes.com.