Meat, meat and more meat.

Did we mention Dot's is all about the meat? If this turns you off, or if you're the type who favors a "lite" lunch, don't even bother. But if you're into the animal proteins — and ready to try something a little bit different — this delicatessen has your number.

It's got chutzpah, too, considering it's basically a sandwich place that's located a stones-throw from both Uneeda Burger and Paseo. But Dot's has been the topic of much buzz since opening this past summer, and deservedly so. It's obvious owners Miles James and Robin Short take pride in their fare. And that they love bacon as much as we do.

You'll find carefully crafted sandwiches, grass-fed beef and other meats, and daily specials.

Strictly speaking, we wouldn't call this a bargain restaurant, but you'll leave feeling full and satisfied for the money.

The menu: This isn't a typical deli. In other words, no low-salt turkey breast or sliced American cheese here. What you will find are house-made sausages, pâtés and rillettes; locally raised meats ranging from rabbit to rib-eye; and all sorts of smoked goodness, as well.

Most important there are beautiful sandwiches. We tried the smoked pork, with slices thrown briefly on the grill then layered on a crusty baguette with melted Gruyère, sliced pickles and red onion ($9.) The hot dog ($7.50 with a smattering of slaw) is like none you've ever seen before. Turns out they're not naturally ballpark red. An egg-and-pork breakfast sandwich ($9) was enough to last us to dinner.

Early evening, you can get steak frites ($12), steak tartare ($7) or charcuterie ($10) and other happy-hour specials.

What to write home about: We already told you about the sandwiches. Now for the sides. Collards ($6), redolent with smokey bacon chunks and just a touch of sweetness. Thick frites (small $3.50, large $5), crunchy on the outside, meaty on the inside. Vinegary coleslaw ($4) that brightens up the pork-heavy meals.

The setting: Place your order at the counter, watch the cook craft your sandwich, and eat at one of the butcher-block tables or a long side bar with high stools.

Summing up: A hefty lunch for three, with sliced salami and house-made Marcona almonds to take home, ran us $44.50, not including tax or tip.

Maureen O'Hagan: 206-464-2562 or mohagan@seattletimes.com