Pel'Meni Dumpling Tzar: Cooking up Russian dumplings in Fremont

If you attended Western Washington University, no introduction is needed. The Russian dumplings that have been a big hit in Bellingham for students and bar hoppers are now available in Fremont. Pel'Meni Dumpling Tzar is located — where else? — near the Lenin statue.

Open since February in an alley, Pel'Meni wants to draw the dinner crowd, but the food is intended more for the barhopping set. Doors open at 5 p.m. daily. Closing hour can be best described as flexible. Pel'Meni doesn't shut down until the last bar hopper departs.

The menu: There's a blackboard menu of just beef or potato dumplings ($7 for about 16 dumplings) or a combination of both ($8 for about 20 dumplings). Each order is served with rye bread in a biodegradable tray. Sodas and water cost $1, energy drinks $2.

What to write home about: Beef dumplings are more like chewy vessels for the sauces and spices. Dumplings get a squirt of hot sauce, rice-wine vinegar, butter, sour cream and a sprinkle of curry and cilantro for a tart, tangy and mildly spicy bite. Once you've gobbled up the dumplings, use the spongy rye bread to mop up the leftover sauces. They taste better at night after you've had a few.

What to skip: Vegetarians, you're out of luck. The potato dumplings were bland. The sour cream helps.

The setting: It looks like a coffeehouse, which the spot once was. It's now a shared space with Alley Cat sandwich shop during the day and Pel'Meni at night. There's a dining space and also a courtyard, though many prefer their orders to go. The boiled dumplings are made to order in the open kitchen. Takes about five minutes per order.

Summing up: An order each of the meat and potato dumplings and the combo totaled $22, enough for three. The dumplings, more like an egg-noodle pasta dough, aren't the authentic Russian version. They've been tweaked with a pleasant tart, spicy and curry flavor, with a chewy texture, ideal for the bar hoppers who get the late-night munchies.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com