Mykonos Greek Grill: Hellenic favorites with care and flair

Co-owners Taki Skepetaris and Bob Kokkovas recently took over a small storefront cafe steps away from Green Lake and equipped it with simple décor and a menu of standard dishes from their native Greece.

But the familiar Hellenic entrees are handled with extra culinary care and flair in this comfortable, casual new neighborhood bistro, which is gaining a word-of-mouth reputation for its cuisine. The fresh ingredients, savory spices and pleasant, prompt service are drawing notice, and fans. And as the name suggests, the grilled meats here are tops.

The menu: A lengthier list of appetizers than in many café-sized Greek eateries includes items that will please vegetarians as well as omnivores. There are the usual tzaziki and hummus dips ($4.95 each), nicely executed, but also a zesty tyrokafteri ($5.95), a feta cheese, hot pepper and dill dip served with warm, chewy pita crescents, and the melitzanes tiganites ($5.95), lightly fried eggplant rounds served with tzaziki and the potato-garlic dip, skordalia.

Among the good, standard assortment of lunch and light appetite items offered are souvlaki (kebab) sandwiches with pork, chicken or lamb ($6.50-$7.50; $2 more with fries or salad). There are also crisp, not-overdressed dinner-size salads; and best of all, a half-dozen very tasty entrees (and souvlaki platters) served with soup or salad, and flavorful roasted potatoes or orzo ($11.50-$18.95, and reduced-price daily specials).

What to write home about: Moussaka, that beloved Greek casserole, can often be heavy and rich. But the version here is luscious and light, a classic layering of flavorful ground beef and eggplant topped with a feathery béchamel custard.

Also divine: the platter of three succulent baby lamb chops, drizzled with a tangy lemon-mustard sauce.

What to skip: The avgolemono (egg-lemon) soup, which is watery and overly bland.

Summing up: We enjoyed a tyrokafteri appetizer ($5.95), and two delectable entrees: moussaka with potatoes ($11.95), and a special of lamb chops with soup ($12.95). With one soft drink, one coffee, tax and tip, the final tally was $43.51.

Misha Berson: mberson@seattletimes.com