Happy Hour: Branzino puts its stellar pizza on the bar menu

HAPPY HOUR |

Up and down the streets of Belltown, where the $3 draft and $5 cocktails are plentiful, it's easy to get lost in the happy-hour shuffle. That's what happened to Branzino, the fancy Italian joint at Second Avenue and Wall Street. It's been tweaking its bar menu here and there without getting much traction among the bar crowd.

Well, Branzino finally did something I never expected: It put its stellar pizza on the happy-hour menu last week for $6. That's a steal. Branzino serves one of the best, underrated pizzas in this city. This ranks with El Gaucho's burger for best happy-hour dish in Belltown.

A thin, crispy crust. Interesting toppings. On a recent visit, some pear slices balanced the saltiness of blue cheese and roasted chicken. On other nights, it might be guanciale (hog jowls), arugula, Parmigiano-Reggiano with an egg cracked on top. Not your extra-cheese-with-everything-on-it kinda place. It's a nuanced and addictive pie.

The best beer on its rotating taps: La Chouffe, a light, balanced ale with some fruity notes — should've been served about five degrees warmer to better accentuate its character. But a good deal nonetheless ($3.50) during happy hour.

Here's how you want to end the night: Some hot and doughy sugarcoated doughnut nuggets made to order, with strawberries and mascarpone on the side.

Branzino, 2429 Second Ave., offers happy hour 5-7 p.m. daily and again 10-midnight Tuesdays-Thursdays and 10-1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, with $6 pizzas and other bar snacks ($4-$7). House wines ($5) and well drinks and beers on tap ($3.50) (206-728-5181 or www.branzinoseattle.com).

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com