Inay's Asian Pacific Cuisine: A feast of Philippines-style dishes greet diners on Beacon Hill

Faced with an intriguing menu and a dining companion whose aversion to hot and spicy is exceeded only by my love for it, I turned pleadingly to our server, Louie, for dinner suggestions at this most charming of eateries.

Without hesitation, he recommended two dishes that dwell somewhere in the spicy middle: salty fried tilapia with coconut milk, jalapeños and ginger, and spicy pork cooked in coconut milk, jalapeños and anchovies.

Our meal appeared with lightning speed, a feast for the eyes and tongue that left us contented and full.

The menu: An abundant selection of traditional Philippines-style dishes, including chicken and pork cooked in adobo sauce (vinegar, soy sauce and garlic) for $7.95; longsilog, a spicy sausage similar to chorizo, served with garlic rice and eggs ($7.95); and kare-kare, beef, tripe and vegetables in peanut sauce ($8.95). This is a meat-lover's place: chicken, beef and pork are amply represented on a menu where most everything is under $9. Vegetarian offerings are limited to tofu adobo, black bean tofu and a vegetable wrap with peanut sauce (all $7.95). Flan ($3.50), ice cream ($1.50) and traditional desserts ($3.50-$4.75) also are available.

What to write home about: The pork, perfectly cubed and so juicy and tender that it rendered knives irrelevant. Sweet mango iced tea ($2.50, with free refills) provided a perfect balance of sweet and cold to tamp down the heat from the jalapeños.

The setting: From the street, Inay's appears to be a tiny establishment, but the dining room is spacious, with 11 tables and plenty of elbow room. Diaphanous floor-to-ceiling curtains bring a casual elegance to the space, but the vibe is welcoming, as one would expect from a place that takes its name from the Tagalog word for "mom."

Summing up: An appetizer, two main courses and two mango iced teas came to $37.50, including tip. We also appreciated the free closer: fried plantain in a lumpia wrapper with caramel sauce.

Susan Kelleher: 206-464-2508 or skelleher@seattletimes.com