Where Ya At: Creole truck rolls out hot beignets, po'boys, gumbos

This has become one food-truck, love-struck city, with young cooks and entrepreneurs plotting to put one fare or another on wheels. The "it" truck at the moment is Where Ya At, which makes the lunch rounds around Seattle, as well as at festivals and farmers markets, serving up po'boys, beignets and Creole soul food.

When owner Matthew Lewis debuted the truck in July, the line was long — around-the-corner long.

The menu: New Orleans comfort food to go, including muffulettas, gumbos, beignets and five to seven different po'boys. Other weeks, Lewis may carry bread pudding, jambalaya or seasonal items.

What to write home about: The Peace Maker ($10) is as gluttonous a po'boy as they come. One of the best new sandwiches to roll out in Seattle this year: deep-fried oysters layered with bacon strips, cheddar, ailoi, pickles, Mama Lil's peppers and lettuce on a sub — a mingling of sweet, sour and salty, with a crunchy bite.

Lighter is the oyster po'boy ($9). But who are we kidding? This is New Orleans fare; it's still deep-fried and creamy rich.

Both are the best of the po'boy offerings. (The meaty $8 shrimp po'boy lacks that crunchy texture of the fried-oyster version).

There is a gumbo ($8), filled with shredded chicken and generous chunks of Andouille sausage. A douse of Tabasco sauce rounds that out nicely.

Folks don't leave here without wolfing down some beignets. You shouldn't

either. These French-style deep-fried doughnuts have a light and crunchy crust, dusted with powdered sugar, and a soft, hot interior. Best to eat them right on the premises.

What to skip: The pork po'boy ($8) was dry and overwhelmed by the acidity of the apple slices.

The setting: It's a food truck, with two cooks and Lewis taking orders up front. Friendly and efficient service. Lines haven't been as long as when the truck debuted. Folks eat out front, in their cars or take their po'boys back to the office.

Summing up: Three po'boys, a gumbo, bread pudding and beignets came to $43 and can feed four. Good portions, rich and filling. No item is more than $10.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com