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Originally published Thursday, September 9, 2010 at 7:04 PM

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Dining Deals

Fonté Café & Wine Bar: A convenient spot downtown for a light, fresh, preshow bite

Fonté Café & Wine Bar is a cozy, sleek new boîte at the Four Seasons Hotel Seattle that offers house-roasted coffee, an array of wines by the glass and freshly prepared bites.

Seattle Times arts critic

Fonté Cafe & Wine Bar

Eclectic

1321 First Ave., Seattle

206-777-6193

www.fontecoffee.com

Hours: 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, 7 a.m.- 9 p.m. Sundays and Mondays, happy hour 5-6:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays.

Etc: All major credit cards accepted; street parking; no obstacles to access.

Prices: $$

Seattle arts patrons are always on the hunt for places to grab a light, reasonably priced snack or dinner before symphony concerts, theater and art events.

For that reason, Fonté Café & Wine Bar — a cozy, sleek new boîte at the Four Seasons Hotel Seattle (near the Seattle Art Museum) — is a welcome addition to the downtown scene.

Offering house-roasted coffee, an array of wines by the glass and freshly prepared bites, the place is open for breakfast, lunch, happy hour and dinner. We checked it out in the evening, on the way to a show.

The menu: The food selection is nicely diverse. For light appetites, there are shareable artisan meat and cheese boards ($13-$25, depending on the size).

Neapolitan-style individual pizzas with such toppings as prosciutto and arugula ($15), and blue cheese and grapes ($14), are made to order. And the several pasta dishes include a rigatoni Bolognese ($14) and a rich mac and cheese ($10).

Quick choices such as veggie and charcuterie sandwiches ($11-$12), entree salads ($12-$15), and a hearty vegetable Soup Pistou and green salad combo ($9) are good options if time is short. And on a recent visit, the service was friendly and prompt.

What to write home about: The rigatoni Bolognese is ambrosial, with a thick, savory sauce of veal, beef and pork simmered in red wine. The sandwiches also are pleasing. We liked the Garde Manger ($12) — salamis, red peppers, braised fennel and arugula tucked into a large, crusty roll brushed with olive oil, and served with an unusual, tasty side of Farro salad.

What to skip: The overpriced salad Niçoise ($15) was underwhelming, with a modest portion of salty, shredded greens mixed up willy-nilly with tuna, potatoes, olives, and other ingredients.

The setting: Fonté occupies one compact but inviting room, with low lighting and modish furniture. There's a small wine and coffee bar in the back and seating up front at small tables.

Summing up: Fonté is a convenient place to drop in for a light, fresh, preshow repast with an Italian accent. A sandwich, salad Niçoise and plate of rigatoni, with a soda and a glass of wine, came to $45.95, not including tax and tip.

Misha Berson: mberson@seattletimes.com

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