Pub fare a cut above at friendly Mulleady's

If you've ever lived in Ireland or New England and embraced pub culture, Mulleady's Irish Pub & Restaurant will bring back those memories.

Mulleady's opened in 2001 in Magnolia, and has since moved a block west into a shiny, two-story pub house that still exudes Old World charm — a perfect respite at the end of a long week.

The menu: Pub grub meets gourmet here. Even the great Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw, a staunch vegetarian, could find something on this menu, such as a $9 barley-and-lentil burger.

While mac and cheese ($6) and the chevre and blackberry honey fondue ($8) are popular appetizers, fish lovers might try the salmon rillette ($9), a spread of smoked and steamed salmon served with pickled onions and a pungent condiment.

Main courses include Mulleady's burger ($10) with caramelized onions and roasted tomato jam; beer-battered cod and chips ($12); and shepherd's pie ($11), mashed potatoes over ground lamb and beef, peas and carrots.

And since we're talking about an Irish pub, it's worth noting they have more than a dozen beers on draft and almost 20 others by the can or bottle. There are many good choices for those who enjoy cocktails and wine as well.

What to write home about: The shepherd's pie, sprinkled with chives and melted cheese, is a heaping portion for two. All the strong, separate flavors in this casserole coalesce into a satisfying whole. We also liked the beer-battered cod, which was crunchy but not overly greasy and soft inside.

What to skip: Even though we enjoyed the pickled onions, the salmon rillette wasn't all that impressive for the price. We expected more flavor and moistness.

The setting: A traditional, long serving bar and wide, open booths for making new friends mark the downstairs. Singles can ditch the families with children by going upstairs, where there are small tables, a couch and a short serving bar with a television. (After 9 p.m., the whole pub house is for adults only.)

Summing up: Mulleady's pub fare delivers value and taste in a friendly, bustling setting. Two beers, cod and chips, shepherd's pie and salmon rillette came to $52.12, including tax and tip.

Sanjay Bhatt: 206-464-3103 or sbhatt@seattletimes.com