Happy Hour: Pig tails and anchovies — that's what Seattle's re:public is made of

HAPPY HOUR |

Says a lot about how far our bar-food scene has come when a joint like re:public can draw a full house every evening, becoming the "it" happy-hour spot in South Lake Union overnight.

We'll get to its ridiculous name in a bit. First, what this happy hour showcases: pig tails and anchovies.

You are out of luck if you expected chicken wings and nachos.

To start: some white anchovies on toast, with a creamy white-bean purée, tart and salty, rounded out by some smoked tomatoes. A burst of umami. One of the best bar bites in the city.

That pig tail? Fatty and silky in texture, with an intense porkiness. It's deep-fried like a mozzarella stick. That soft-boiled egg plays like mayo, providing a creamy, decadent finish. There's grain mustard, but that's for neophytes who need to dial down the porky aroma and flavor.

Far from perfect, though. The beet salad with avocado lacked salt. The albacore crudo was drowning in watermelon and tasted like dessert.

Best beer deal in town: an India Pale Ale by Boundary Bay Brewery for $3.

The name of the place is a play on its location, at Republic Street and Westlake Avenue North, and also on the "regarding" abbreviation you see in e-mail (re:public), to symbolize its mission to serve the public.

re:public, 429 Westlake Ave. N., offers happy hour daily from 4-6 p.m. with $4 bar snacks, $3 beer and $4 wine and well drinks. (206 467-5300 or www.republicseattle.com)

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com

Information in this article, originally published Aug. 17, 2010, was corrected Aug. 18, 2010. A previous version of this story incorrectly spelled umami as "unami."