Max's World Take Out: A delicious discovery in Issaquah

I found myself hungry and in an unfamiliar neighborhood, not quite desperate but I did have a deadline. Just 45 minutes until my assignment began, I was in Issaquah with no leads on lunch and an adamant desire to avoid fast food.

Those were the circumstances of a most serendipitously delicious discovery on Front Street in Issaquah. I went in to Max's World Take Out hoping for a salad, perhaps a deli sandwich. What I got was a preservative-free meal of well-seasoned chicken tikka ($10.99) served with rice pilaf and a side of black-bean salsa, the acidity of the lime and bite of the onion making a particularly memorable impression.

You can find cheaper meals but not a better value, considering that everything is made from scratch by Edna Noronha, whose restaurant bears the name of her 2-year-old German shepherd.

The food is well-seasoned but not spicy and it is undeniably soulful, the kind of takeout food that won't cause a second's guilt.

The menu: It's evolving (the restaurant has been open only a month). The most recent additions were panko-crusted beef or chicken sandwiches ($10.99), which are so popular they sometimes sell out. Full meals such as tri-tip steak with sides are $10.99, and there also are three types of chicken satays ($1.99 per skewer) and a lemon-grass steak satay ($2.99).

Soft drinks and orange juice from a cooler are $1.50.

What to write home about: The Portuguese chicken curry ($10.99), which I had on my second visit, included potatoes and a delicious sauce. The coleslaw also was wonderful, the dressing a great mix of sweet, sour and a little salty. It is served with dinners or can be ordered a la carte ($3.99). The rice pilaf ($3.99 a la carte), with scallions, was filling, fluffy and wholesome — and not to be missed.

The setting: The eating area has only three tables, if you want to dine in on Issaquah's main drag. Or you can phone ahead to pick up your order.

Summing up: My meal of Portuguese chicken curry came to $12.10 with tax.

Danny O'Neil: 206-464-2364 or doneil@seattletimes.com