Roosevelt Ale House: pub grub with flair for the whole family
Restaurant review of Roosevelt Ale House in Seattle's Maple Leaf neighborhood.
Seattle Times staff reporter
Roosevelt Ale HouseAmerican
8824 Roosevelt Way N.E., Seattle
Hours: 3 p.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Fridays, 1 p.m.-2 a.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Etc: Major credit cards accepted; ample parking on street and behind building; no obstacles to access; full bar.
Some people might consider Maple Leaf simply the neighborhood linking Ravenna and Northgate, a tree-lined alternative to Interstate 5 for those looking to head north to the mall. The Roosevelt Ale House promises to change that.
I knew we were on to something earlier this year when my dinner companions slurped down the Roosevelt's beef stew with satisfied surprise, cooing over the red-wine-steeped broth and tender chunks of meat.
This may be pub grub — but it's pub grub in the sense that butterflies are insects — which is to say that there is some artistry involved. This is what you get when you put quality, seasonal ingredients and a practiced hand in the kitchen.
The former Jones Bistro, a local favorite that closed last summer, has been reborn as an expansive watering hole fit for watching M's games or feeding the family brood.
The menu: A variety of appetizers, salads and sandwiches (vegetarian included) and a handful of entrees for adults and kids, done with more flair than you'd expect. Also — it's an alehouse after all — there are 50 bottled beers ranging from Bud to Orval Trappist Ale and a half-dozen rotating microbrews on tap.
What to write home about: On a recent visit, the chicken strips ($6) were hefty half-breasts of panko-breaded goodness. The barbecue-garlic aioli offered a creamy, spicy kick that complemented the hot and juicy chicken's pleasant crunch.
Service was spotty, but the wait was worth the spicy beef chili infused with garlic-pasilla adobo ($9) and peppery, fall-off-with-a-glance St. Louis-style barbecue pork spareribs ($12).
What to skip: The Caesar salad ($5/$7). Not bad — just a role player on a standout roster.
The setting: Spacious, awash in classic rock — think ZZ Top and Stevie Ray Vaughan — and divided into three territories. A cozy bar setting is adjoined by a wide-laned area with pool table; a family-friendly space covers the rear; and an outdoor patio in front, along Roosevelt Way, offers sunny-weather seating.
Summing up: Dinner for two — which included the spareribs, chili, chicken strips and a beer — came to $34.20, without tip. They say change can be hard, but the Roosevelt could make Maple Leaf my go-to destination.
Marc Ramirez: 206-464-8102 or firstname.lastname@example.org
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