Roosevelt Ale House: pub grub with flair for the whole family

Some people might consider Maple Leaf simply the neighborhood linking Ravenna and Northgate, a tree-lined alternative to Interstate 5 for those looking to head north to the mall. The Roosevelt Ale House promises to change that.

I knew we were on to something earlier this year when my dinner companions slurped down the Roosevelt's beef stew with satisfied surprise, cooing over the red-wine-steeped broth and tender chunks of meat.

This may be pub grub — but it's pub grub in the sense that butterflies are insects — which is to say that there is some artistry involved. This is what you get when you put quality, seasonal ingredients and a practiced hand in the kitchen.

The former Jones Bistro, a local favorite that closed last summer, has been reborn as an expansive watering hole fit for watching M's games or feeding the family brood.

The menu: A variety of appetizers, salads and sandwiches (vegetarian included) and a handful of entrees for adults and kids, done with more flair than you'd expect. Also — it's an alehouse after all — there are 50 bottled beers ranging from Bud to Orval Trappist Ale and a half-dozen rotating microbrews on tap.

What to write home about: On a recent visit, the chicken strips ($6) were hefty half-breasts of panko-breaded goodness. The barbecue-garlic aioli offered a creamy, spicy kick that complemented the hot and juicy chicken's pleasant crunch.

Service was spotty, but the wait was worth the spicy beef chili infused with garlic-pasilla adobo ($9) and peppery, fall-off-with-a-glance St. Louis-style barbecue pork spareribs ($12).

What to skip: The Caesar salad ($5/$7). Not bad — just a role player on a standout roster.

The setting: Spacious, awash in classic rock — think ZZ Top and Stevie Ray Vaughan — and divided into three territories. A cozy bar setting is adjoined by a wide-laned area with pool table; a family-friendly space covers the rear; and an outdoor patio in front, along Roosevelt Way, offers sunny-weather seating.

Summing up: Dinner for two — which included the spareribs, chili, chicken strips and a beer — came to $34.20, without tip. They say change can be hard, but the Roosevelt could make Maple Leaf my go-to destination.

Marc Ramirez: 206-464-8102 or mramirez@seattletimes.com