Tiny Greenwood cafe serves a slice of Greece

The respect implied by the name is deliciously deserved.

It is Mr. Gyro's, the formal title a sign of respect for the meal you'll find at this cubbyhole of a Greek restaurant in Greenwood.

In an open kitchen, three vertical broilers roast cuts of lamb, chicken and beef, which offer visual and olfactory evidence that this isn't your corner-store Mediterranean sandwich shop.

It is, however, a decidedly local joint owned and operated by brothers Joni and Sammy Arsheed for the past seven years. Be assured at least one will always be there, using a long knife to cut a slice off the lamb roast and moving it to the grill to sizzle until ready for a delicious sandwich that doesn't have to hide behind aggressive seasonings.

The menu: Much larger than you'd expect given the size of the restaurant. There are three kinds of salads ($5.79-$6.99), six types of sandwiches ($4.99-$6.49) and a number of full plates ($7.19-$9.40) that include Greek salad, rice, pita and a choice of hummus or baba ghanouj.

What to write home about: The combination plate of falafel and chicken shawarma ($9.40) was so good that it was tough to pick a favorite between the two. The vegetarian balls were crisp on the outside, tender on the inside and very aromatic, nothing like the flavorless hockey pucks that are the stuff of buffet horror stories. The chicken was so deliciously succulent I opted for eating it alone instead of piling it on pita, which would usually qualify as heresy for a bread lover such as myself.

The lamb gyro ($4.99) featured meat that was moist and tender but not overpowered by the tzatziki sauce, although the tomatoes were mushy.

What to skip: The pita — it came with the baba ghanouj (which packs a garlic punch and may be too potent for some) — wasn't as good as it could be.

The setting: There are two small tables, a lunch counter and about eight stools.

Summing up: A lamb-gyro lunch special (with Greek fries and a drink), a combination plate with falafel and chicken shawarma (with rice, Greek salad, pita and hummus), a side order of baba ghanouj and Arabic tea came to $25.25 with tax — and more pita than two people could possibly eat.

Danny O'Neil: 206-464-2364 or doneil@seattletimes.com