Happy Hour: TASTE's tuna melt is a masterpiece

Happy Hour |

People came for the Michelangelo exhibition. I came for the deconstructed tuna melt.

A thing of beauty, this tuna melt, at the TASTE bar inside Seattle Art Museum. A toasted brioche foundation, topped with a scoop of tuna tartare — the fancy St. Jude albacore too — with nutty Gruyere cream. Topped with pickled onion to balance the cheesy saltiness.

Not your corner deli tuna sandwich. TASTE Executive Chef Craig Hetherington made sure of that.

Any day would be good to partake in fine art and tuna. This Thursday in particular, though: Free museum admission first Thursday of every month. Hit happy hour beforehand, and you've got a good deal.

A buttery, open-faced tuna melt. But why stop there? Crunchy flatbread topped with some caramelized onion and salty bacon bits is a filling follow-up. Or thin-crust pizza, but one with heft — sausage, fontina, arugula and smoked curado — to pair with an IPA.

We're on a roll — until the rabbit rillette presented an unpleasant surprise: a piece of bone.

Addicting was the crunchy deep-fried leeks that came with the burger. But why a skimpy patty, cruelly sandwiched between big buns more suited for a quarter-pounder?

But I will always remember the tuna melt.

TASTE restaurant and bar at Seattle Art Museum, 1300 First Ave., offers happy hour 3-6 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays when all bar food costs $6 or less and draft beer is $3, selected cocktails $5 and wine $7 (206-903-5291 or www.tastesam.com).

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com