Warm up with some hearty chili at Slim's in Georgetown

Michael and Celeste Lucas opened Slim's Last Chance Chili Shack & Watering Hole in Georgetown about 20 months ago and it's been garnering buzz since.

Bon Appétit magazine named it one of the country's top 10 chili joints, and the Food Network featured the restaurant on its show "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives."

Michael Lucas, who also owns Pig Iron Bar-B-Q next door to Slim's, has served as head chef at Il Bistro and sous chef at other Seattle restaurants. He says he's always wanted to own a "down-home, juke-jointy place ... where people can just hang out and relax. And chili just really seems to fit that bill."

Those under 21 aren't allowed in Slim's Last Chance but can order from Slim's menu at the Pig Iron.

The menu: Four different chilis, served alone or over mac 'n' cheese or grits (cup $4.95, bowl $7.95); side dishes including cornbread and fries ($3-$3.50); and other vittles such as burgers ($9.50-$10.50), chili-cheese Kobe dog ($9.50) and crawfish po-boy ($9.50).

Three of us ordered a cup of each of the chilis; sides of the jalapeño mac 'n' cheese, white-cheddar grits and cornbread; and "the works" — assorted chili toppings.

What to write home about: Our favorite chili was the Texas Red — a robust, flavorful, bean-less bowl of Angus-beef goodness with a little kick. Also tops was the Turkey & White Bean, with its well-judged blend of flavors that leave a gentle tickle at the back of the throat. (Those who like things spicier will want to take advantage of the various hot sauces.)

On its own, the Brisket n' Bean, which has beer in it, tasted a bit too malty. But the sour cream and chives that came with "the works" added just the right balance.

Though there didn't seem to be much jalapeño in the jalapeño mac 'n' cheese, it — along with the cheddar grits — were small bowls of creamy comfort.

What to skip: Nothing, really, though on the day we went, the Chili Verde was underwhelming, lacking body and much discernible pork.

The setting: Relaxed rockabilly meets Western kitsch. The spacious joint features lots of weathered-looking wood, a vinyl couch, pictures of Elvis and dogs playing poker, a jukebox, pool table and full bar. Service was fast and friendly.

Summing up: Our total, including beverages, came to $39.45 with tax. Slim's Last Chance is a fun hangout and a great place to go for some hearty, down-home comfort food.

Janet I. Tu: 206-464-2272 or jtu@seattletimes.com