At Angelo's in Burien, a welcome as hearty as the portions
Angelo's of Burien, which has been operated by the Ricci family for more than 50 years, offers a lengthy menu of classic Italian dishes, generous portions and easygoing, super-competent servers who make even newcomers feel welcome.
Seattle Times Arts & Life editor
601 S.W. 153rd St., Burien
Hours: 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays.
Etc: All credit cards; plenty of parking in front and on street; no obstacles to access; beer (bottled only), wine and liquor.
Additional locations: Angelo's of Bellevue, 1830 130th Ave. N.E., Bellevue (425-883-2777). 909 Coffee and Wine, 909 S.W. 152nd St., Burien (206-243-7909 or www.909coffeeandwine.com).
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Over the years, The Seattle Times has received many fan letters on behalf of Angelo's of Burien, which has been operated by the Ricci family on the corner of Sixth Avenue Southwest and Southwest 153rd Street for more than 50 years. After one visit, we can see why: It's got a lengthy menu of classic Italian dishes, generous portions and easygoing, super-competent servers who make even newcomers feel welcome.
The menu: Name your favorite, it's here: spaghetti ($9.50), beef cannelloni ($12.95), ravioli ($11.50), fettuccini Alfredo ($10.95), pizza (16-inchers start at $14.50); veal piccata ($19.95) and chicken parmigiana ($15.95). The wine steak is a big seller (8 ounce, $16.95; 12 ounce, $19.95; 16 ounce, $23.50), and a rotating list of specials ventures a little further afield. Most dishes are served with garlic bread and green salad, with homemade dressings.
What to write home about: The seven dishes our party sampled were fine; nothing spectacular, but no total failures, either. Most impressive, for sheer size and presentation, was the chicken cacciatore ($15.50) — an enormous half chicken, smothered in a tomato-onion-bell-pepper-and-mushroom sauce. It's served Fridays and Saturdays only. The 8-ounce steak my nephew ordered was similarly huge — so big he thought the server had made a mistake and brought the 12-ouncer by mistake.
The setting: It doesn't look like much from the street, but Angelo's has a quaint, comfortable (if a little too dark) interior, with red tablecloths, electric "candlelight" and murals of Roman ruins on the walls. Multiple rooms (plus a bar) accommodate banquets and special events — no less than five family parties were in full swing on a recent Saturday night.
Summing up: Angelo's isn't cheap, exactly, but since most meals are inclusive, if you stick to the pasta menu, you can eat quite affordably. My husband and I ordered rigatoni Alfredo ($13.50) and a linguine special ($14.50) plus a beer apiece ($8) for a total of $36 plus tax and tip.
The restaurant's biggest selling points are ease and comfort: On a very busy Saturday, we showed up for our reservation with extra people in tow. Our server immediately rearranged the tables and brought extra chairs without any fuss at all. If that alone doesn't warrant a fan letter, I don't know what does.
Lynn Jacobson: 206-464-2714 or firstname.lastname@example.org
Copyright © 2009 The Seattle Times Company
Sam and Sara Lucchese create handmade pasta out of their kitchen-garage adjacent to their Ballard home. Here, they illustrate the final steps in making pappardelle pasta.