Happy hour | Satisfying seafood at Daniel's Broiler

The common denominator at the Daniel's Broiler steakhouses — or any steakhouse really — is the promise that food, even bar food, comes Texas-sized.

Light? Daniel's Broiler doesn't generally do light. Take its happy-hour menu. It's more seafood than steak, but presented with such richness and heft that the seafood reminds you of, well, a steak. The grilled bacon-wrapped scallops, for instance, come drenched in a thick, creamy butter sauce. Seared ahi tuna? It's layered with avocado slices to provide a buttery texture, as well as jack up the fat quotient.

The lightest appetizer I ate was the deep-fried popcorn shrimp with lemon aioli and Sriracha chili dipping sauce.

The seafood dishes, about $8, were stellar, though pricey. But I doubt any happy-hour reveler would complain they left Daniel's hungry.

The lone appetizer that fell flat was the one that you would think Daniel's Broiler would get right: steak. The strips of filet mignon, done teriyaki-style, were overcooked and chewy. And on another visit, too salty.

Daniel's Broiler, 809 Fairview Place N., in South Lake Union in Seattle, offers happy hour 4-6:30 p.m. daily, when all appetizers and wines by the glass are half-off, draft beers cost $3.95 and martinis and Manhattans are $7.95. Daniel's also offers the same happy-hour deal in its Bellevue and Leschi Marina locations (online at www.schwartzbros.com/daniels for all locations; phone 206-621-8262 in South Lake Union).

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656 or tvinh@seattletimes.com