Azuma Sushi is a friendly neighborhood spot for sushi and Japanese comfort food

A couple of years ago, my West Seattle family tried to get into a sushi joint on California Avenue Southwest that had been proclaimed by a sushi-searching Web site as one of the best in the city. Two-hour wait, we were told. We hiked north of the Junction to Azuma Sushi, where we were seated without delay, and have been thanking our lucky stars ever since that fate propelled us to such a lovely, friendly spot.

A light and airy space, personal service and the freshest possible ingredients make a meal at Azuma Sushi a treat.

The menu: An extensive range of Japanese dishes includes but is not limited to appetizers, salads, teriyaki, breaded and deep-fried katsu cutlets, tempura, a house curry, sushi and sashimi, udon/ramen noodle soups, Japanese hot pots, bento boxes and desserts, mostly versions of ice cream.

What to write home about: It's all good, but particularly delectable is the dynamite roll — composed of tuna, salmon, butterfish and avocado, lightly battered and deep-fried, topped with a sweet and spicy sauce ($9.95). The spider roll includes deep-fried soft-shell crab, crab meat, masago roe, avocado and cucumber with radish sprouts ($10.95). The bento box is a great deal. You can order one of several variations; mine — the chicken teriyaki with a California roll, salad and rice — was quite filling and only $10.95.

The setting: Sunny and airy; the large windows fronting California Avenue let the light stream in. The walls are painted a light- melon color with various Japanese knickknacks for decoration. The service is very personable; one particular waitress has been keeping track of our kids' growth rates for years.

Summing up: Azuma Sushi offers a relaxed, economical dining experience with fresh ingredients and a wide range of selections. Our bill for four — which included a chicken- teriyaki bento box, tempura roll with miso soup, spider roll with miso soup, yakisoba noodles with chicken and a couple of extra pieces of sushi for our ravenous 17-year-old — came to $49.83.

Mary Ann Gwinn: mgwinn@seattletimes.com