Moody Gainsbourg's good for a drink and a bite

The namesake of Greenwood's Gainsbourg is a heavy-lidded French music icon whose visage adorns the walls of the darkly lit cocktail lounge; whose music may be playing in the background; and whose Frenchness is celebrated in the small plates, vintage décor and subtitled movies projected on one wall.

A notorious drinker and smoker linked with such beauties as Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin, Serge Gainsbourg is a particularly easy bar muse.

Co-owner Hannah Levin, who's also a KEXP DJ and Seattle Weekly columnist, considers Gainsbourg mainly a watering hole. But the cocktail lounge also offers a decent menu with food she and partner JJ Wandler might offer to guests in their home.

More authentic French food can be found elsewhere, but when seated in a cozy booth lit by a boat-shaped lamp, I was not going to deny myself the classic French onion soup or the beet salad.

The menu: The French- inspired small plates include a charcuterie platter ($9); hot and cheesy ham sandwiches called croque monsieurs ($6); and roasted Brussels sprouts ($6). Our prompt, helpful server recommended at least four or five plates for two people to fill up for a meal.

What to write home about: A bowl of French onion soup ($5) topped with a crouton and cheese was rich and savory, and the beet salad ($6) satisfied with crisp, toasted hazelnuts and crumbled blue cheese drizzled with bacon vinaigrette ($6). A panko-crusted Poisson and Frites combination ($9) — moist fish and crisp fries — was fragrant with herbs and came with a tarragon rémoulade.

What to skip: The Oysters Gainsbourg ($7) — a creamy mix of crab, oysters and onion — tasted more of crab than oyster; the seafood flavor might not be for everyone. The menu also would benefit from a baguette upgrade — to bread with a crunchy crust instead of the soft slices served.

The setting: Gainsbourg edges toward romantic, with a cozy seating area in front, exposed brick, a candelabra on one table and chandeliers overhead.

Summing up: Like most places with small plates, the menu appears reasonably priced but can add up quickly for a full meal. Our five plates totaled $33 before tax, tip and cocktails. But its moody glamour is lovely for lounging with friends, grabbing a bite and brushing up on your Francais.

Nicole Tsong: 206-464-2150 or ntsong@seattletimes.com