Spiro's Greek Island where the moussaka comes with a belly dance

The belly dancer slithered up to me, her head gliding back and forth like a cobra's. The rest of her seemed to have muscles in places I didn't as she whirled through her veils, her cymbals ringing. I noticed she was able to talk and twitch at the same time. Then she grabbed me by the hand and pulled me up to dance.

When at Spiro's Greek Island in Kent, you can dance or pretend to, moving your head and shaking your booty (I got applause for the effort) — or you can just enjoy the restaurant's great food, huge servings and friendly service.

The menu: It consists of traditional Greek dishes, including moussaka ($15.50, a dish made of eggplant, layers of vegetables and ground beef); souvlaki ($10.95, pita bread topped with chunks of lamb, beef or chicken, lettuce and a dill sauce); a gyro platter ($16.95); saganaki ($7.95, fried kasseri cheese, which was topped with brandy and flambéed); calamari ($17.50 for dinner); and a huge Greek salad with feta and olives ($12.95). There's also hamburgers for picky kids ($4.70 with fries and drinks).

What to write home about: Any visit must be accompanied by bougatsa ($4.15), a dessert made from phyllo, stuffed with a custard that had a hint of citrus, served warm with honey. The saganaki, which came with pita bread, was also especially good.

The setting: It's adequate but ordinary, with an oversized statue in the lobby, a large painting of a scene from Greece and a hodgepodge collection of tables.

Summing up: My friend and I ordered lamb souvlaki, a Greek salad, bougatsa and two cups of tea for $48 with tax and tip. It was great food and an entertaining evening for a good price.

Nancy Bartley: 206-464-8522 or nbartley@seattletimes.com