Genki well-armed for conveyor-belt sushi war

The conveyor-belt sushi war is on in Lower Queen Anne, in case you haven't noticed.

It all started in December, when Genki Sushi opened across the street from Marinepolis Sushi Land, one of Seattle's most popular conveyor-belt sushi restaurants.

It was quite an audacious move. But Genki Sushi isn't some small startup, what with 181 branches worldwide and counting — and it boasts of inventing the kaiten, or conveyor-belt, concept.

The menu: Genki's eight-page menu features nigiri, rolls, sashimi and appetizers. Nearly everything is less than $5. It's even cheaper during happy hour, when a dozen sushi and other food items are discounted.

You can order off the menu, directly from the chefs or pick what you want from the rotating conveyor belt. The plates are color-coded, with prices ranging from $1.50 to 5.80.

What to write home about: Genki's best dishes were shrimp, tuna and salmon pieces spread with its signature garlic-mayo sauce. Other highlights: The Scallop sushi was soft with a hint of sweetness, as was the juicy Sweet Shrimp sushi.

What to skip: Rolls drenched in sweet-chili and unagi sauce, such as the Spicy Bomb, Genki Roll and Spicy Tempura Roll. I know these are some of Genki's signature rolls, but they aren't supposed to be so sweet as to obliterate everything in their paths.

The setting: The red Asian décor is upscale and modern — fancier than the Genki restaurants in Hawaii, which look more like cafeterias. Service has improved in the past month but still has a ways to go. Some servers were not knowledgeable about what were in the rolls, even the signature rolls.

Summing up: The bill for 11 items, $1 to $4.80, totaled $35.50 before tax. Fanatics will disagree, but there is little difference between Genki and its conveyor-belt competitor. Rather, it comes down to taste preference — and many Genki rolls tend to taste sweeter.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656

or tvinh@seattletimes.com