Voula's Good Eats in Mountlake Terrace: Greek and American comfort food
Voula's Good Eats is the latest chapter in a long family-restaurant story. Count on it for Greek and American comfort foods.
Seattle Times assistant metro editor
Voula's Good EatsGreek/American
4306 228th St. S.W., Suite 5, Mountlake Terrace
Hours: 7 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays,
7 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 7 a.m.-
8 p.m. Sundays.
Etc: Shared parking lot with adjacent shopping center, at 228th Street and Cedar Way; no obstacles to access; Visa, MasterCard accepted; no beer or wine, but the restaurant has applied for a license.
Let's get one thing straight right away: Voula's Good Eats in Mountlake Terrace is NOT related to Voula's Offshore Cafe, the North Lake Union diner that was featured in an episode of the Food Network's "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives." The staff in Mountlake Terrace get that a lot.
Voula's Good Eats, which opened last spring, is the latest entry in Athan family restaurant lore. Voula and Bill Athan emigrated from Greece 42 years ago and started in the restaurant business; Leena's Cafe in Shoreline is named for Voula's granddaughter. The family chose Mountlake Terrace, explains son Stanley Athan (and Voula's Good Eats manager), because Mom and Dad live close by. And Dad makes all the pies.
The menu: Greek ingredients are sprinkled throughout the standard, three-meals-a-day fare: pancakes, omelets and egg scrambles at breakfast; burgers and sandwiches for lunch; pasta, steaks, chicken, pork and veal (even liver and onions) for dinner. Vegetarians have two options at lunch and dinner: a salad or a veggie burger. While the Greek salad ($10.95) was generous and distinctive, the lack of other choices was the only disappointment about Voula's. (At the risk of being inauthentic, how about a meatless-sauce option?)
Refreshing finds on the appetizer list: skordalia ($5.95), a Greek garlic dip, and tzatziki ($5.95), an especially tangy cucumber-yogurt dip, with enough warm pita wedges to ask for a takeout container.
Thursday is Greek Night. Each week, Voula makes something different (moussaka, lamb shank, pastitio), along with dessert (mmm, homemade baklava).
What to write home about: Breakfast and dessert. In North King and South Snohomish counties, good breakfast places aren't exactly on every corner. Knowing that fluffy blueberry pancakes, hashbrowns topped with feta cheese and a side of gyro meat are a short drive away is comforting.
Get a piece of cream pie on your way out: banana, coconut, chocolate, butterscotch and chocolate peanut butter. The latter features a thin layer of chocolate and peanut butter between the crust and the chocolate-cream filling. A modest yet happy dollop of peanut butter tops it off.
The setting: The corner space in a small shopping center is bright with skylights, and a fireplace in the middle of the room breaks up the basic furnishings. The staff is friendly and attentive, and kids are made to feel welcome. (They also get their own menu, several choices, all $4.95, drink included).
Summing up: Dinner with my daughter, including an appetizer and two pieces of pie, was $31. A two-adult, separate trip for breakfast cost $20.
Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company
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