BBQ Pete's: Saucy barbecue with a kick in the sides

Chipotle coleslaw? Really?

We two spice wimps wondered how we'd handle that side dish, which comes with everything at BBQ Pete's. But we tried it, at almost the same moment.

"Not bad," I said, as my friend nodded in agreement. "It's not hot."

Swallow. Breathe.

Holy cow!

The kick is sneaky — delayed but definitely there. It's not bad for people who do spicy.

"It's just not for people who temper mild salsa with sour cream," my friend said.

Amen, sister.

But the next time I go there, I'll eat the offending slaw anyway. I know an addiction when I meet one.

The menu: The restaurant serves barbecue sandwiches, entrees and combo plates for dine-in or takeout. Meals come with chipotle coleslaw and one side dish: baked beans, cornbread, potato salad or creamed corn.

Pete's also caters to large groups with meats by the pound, ribs by the slab and sides by the quart. (Make sure you have lots of napkins.)

We ordered the BBQ Chicken Plate ($9.99) with baked beans and a corn muffin ($1.99 extra for the second side) and the Pulled Pork Plate ($9.99). The barbecue sauce was thick and sweet. The pork was tender, but the chicken was dry.

The yummy baked beans reminded me of the ones Grandma used to make: thick and sweet with bacon and onion.

What to write home about: I know I'm supposed to say the barbecue sauce, but I have to go with the large, sweet corn muffins. Moist inside with a crispy crust, they're the perfect way to sop up any sauce you might have left on your plate.

The setting: This eatery near Boeing in the Kent Valley is brought to you by Ryan Peterson, whose father opened the original Pete's in Tacoma in 1972 and whose family has served Southern-style barbecue at the Puyallup Fair since 1976.

The place is new and still gleaming, with long wood tables and benches and a counter with bar stools that fill up (and turn over) quickly at lunch time. The view of a parking lot and traffic along two major roads isn't ideal, but it's not a place you go for the view. It's a barbecue joint through and through, and it's aimed at the lunch crowd. That's why it's in a corporate park, where there are lots of potential lunch customers, Peterson said.

Summing up: Pete's menu says "instant service." No kidding. We ordered and got our steaming plates of food within 2 minutes of entering the place. Two entrees, an extra side and two drinks cost $28. We were full and plenty satisfied 20 minutes later.

Cindy Zetts: 206-464-2027

or czetts@seattletimes.com