Larry's Smokehouse pulls together a fine plate of barbecue

To eat at Larry's Smokehouse in Mill Creek is to embrace disharmony: My husband devoured his succulent boneless pork; my niece blanched at her too-sweet smoked-beef sandwich; and my mother daubed everything on her plate with hot sauce. (What can I say? She's Korean.)

Larry's location and décor are equally discordant. It juts out like an open-air garage in the middle of a business park.

But if you dig first-rate smoked salmon and meats, or want catering or takeout for barbecue with all the requisite trimmings, Larry's is your spot. Just look for it next to the masonry restoration shop.

The menu: Almost everything you'd expect to find in a barbecue joint is here. Smoked salmon, beef, ham, turkey and pork are available in sandwiches ($2.99 to $7 for half or whole) with one side dish and chips. A dozen specialties are available by the pound for pickup, including blackened beef brisket, smoked lemon chicken breast and barbecued rack of pork ribs. Kids meals for those under 12 are just $1.95 and come with a drink, chips and a sandwich big enough for small adults.

What to write home about: Hubby was right. The pulled-pork rib dinner ($7.99) was the standout, a hefty portion of moist meat served with cole-

slaw and baked beans. The smoked-salmon dinner ($10.99) was good, and would have been excellent if I'd skipped the optional drizzling of Larry's cloying barbecue sauce.

The setting: Very laid-back; the cashier (the lone employee) told us to grab sodas on the house while we waited 15 minutes to order. The main dining area has four picnic benches and meat cases stocked with ham, salmon and other items for sale by weight. Don't overlook the adjacent cozy room decked with a handsome eight-seat dining table and decorated with painted gourds and cowboy motifs.

Summing up: Two dinner entrees, three sandwiches and two kids meals rang up at $46.12, plus tip. With leftovers, eight people feasted.

Kyung Song: 206-464-2423

or ksong@seattletimes.com