Inchin's Bamboo Garden brings Indian-Chinese cuisine to the Eastside

Indian-Chinese cuisine has become one of the world's most-talked-about Asian fusion foods, but — oddly enough — not on the Eastside, even with its large Indian tech work force and Chinese/Asian communities. Inchin's Bamboo Garden in Redmond (not to be confused with Bamboo Garden in Bellevue) hopes to change that.

Inchin's is part of a small but popular East Coast Indian-Chinese restaurant chain. This is its only branch in the Northwest.

The menu: It's a play on Chinese cuisine with Indian spices and cooking techniques, featuring dishes such as Shredded Crispy Lamb Peking, Szechwan Lamb and Chili Mustard Paneer. The fusion is more subtle than pan-Asian cuisine because some Chinese dishes vary little from the classics.

What to write home about: Lat Mai Paneer — cubes of deep-fried Indian cheese mixed with a sauté of onions, ginger, garlic and peppers — was addicting. The paneer, instead of tofu, works well because the cured cheese adds much more flavor and depth. It's listed as an appetizer but works better as an entree. Also noteworthy was the flavorful Burnt Garlic Chili Fried Rice, served with shrimp, chicken and lamb. The fried garlic pieces sweeten the rice, balancing nicely with the chili heat.

What to skip: Chicken Manchurian. The chicken pieces were so overcooked and dried, not even the Manchurian sauce (a popular Indian-Chinese mixture of soya garlic sauce, cilantro, celery, chilies, ginger and onions) could save the dish.

The setting: Inchin's looks like a high-end Chinese restaurant, with bamboo, paper lanterns and a vermilion wall scheme. Nice setting, but poor service. It's woefully understaffed. Better to go early before it gets busy.

Summing up: The bill for an appetizer and three entrees came to $44 before tax, a bit pricey for Chinese food but comparable to other pan-Asian restaurants. Some entrees were greasy, but the novelty of Indian-Chinese cuisine should still draw curious Asian-fusion fans.

Tan Vinh: 206-515-5656

or tvinh@seattletimes.com