Yakima Valley wineries see a fruit-full future

IN 1983, WHEN it was officially recognized as Washington's first American Viticultural Area, the Yakima Valley was already established as a wine-growing region. The Otis vineyard (planted in 1957) and Harrison Hill (planted in 1962) were — and still are — home to this state's oldest cabernet. But other pioneers had also begun putting in substantial acreage: Mike Sauer (at Red Willow), Stan Clark (at Quail Run), Gail Puryear (at Bonair), Mike Hogue, Dick Boushey and the Holmes and Williams families up on scrub-covered Red Mountain.

Since then, the appellation has been subdivided. The Red Mountain and Rattlesnake Hills AVAs now lie within it, along with Washington's newest — Snipes Mountain. These smaller areas are more clearly defined, and in some ways have stolen a little thunder from the rest of the valley.

At the same time, they have raised the bar for all growers and wineries in the region, and attracted some of the state's best winemakers. I sat down with a group of them last spring, and asked them to look ahead a decade or so and predict how Yakima Valley wines would evolve.

David O'Reilly recently moved his Owen Roe winery from Oregon to Sunnyside, specifically to take full advantage of valley fruit. He believes that "we're finally coming to grips with all the different microclimates within the valley."

Among winemakers there is plenty of agreement regarding the valley's strengths, but they are particular to certain sites, planted to certain varietals. Another advantage: Parts of the valley are relatively cool, so grapes ripen at lower sugars, creating wines with lower alcohol levels and, sometimes, more varietal character.

"A lot of people believe," says DeLille's Chris Upchurch, "that Yakima Valley riesling is the best in the state." I would add that grower Boushey's syrah is as good as any in the country. "The good, experienced winemakers are coming here right now, buying fruit here," says Boushey. "To me that means they like the results. There is more planting and discovery here than anywhere in the state. Maybe they are not promoting or exploiting that, but there's a rediscovery going on."

The biggest challenge facing the region, most agree, is exactly that: promoting it. "I remember the first year I made wine from here," says O'Reilly. "I was told by several distributors not to put Yakima Valley on the label. That's why it's so important for winemakers to make that stand. To say I'm working with some of the best vineyards in the U.S., a growing area that makes great, distinctive wines, with great acid and varietal character."

With so many boutique wineries seeking valley fruit, more and more vineyards are being designated on wine labels. Some, like Chris Camarda's Two Blondes and Scott Greer's Sheridan, are proprietary vineyards, serving their own wineries exclusively. Red Willow was for many years the exclusive domaine of Columbia winery, though now it is beginning to sell fruit elsewhere. But many of the best sites are featured on multiple labels. Look for vineyard names such as Boushey, Dineen, DuBrul, Elerding, Kestrel and Lewis, to name just a few.

Here are some other recommended producers with a focus on central Yakima Valley wines: Airfield Estates (especially the riesling); Bonair (all the white wines); Brian Carter Cellars (especially Oriana white blend); Bunnell Family (vineyard designates); Kestrel (particularly viognier); Olsen Estates and Willow Crest.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines & Wineries — the Essential Guide." Contact him at paulgwine@me.com.