The passage of initiative 1183 this month is going to vastly change the way alcohol is sold in Washington. But a much quieter change has been occurring at some of the state's farmers markets this fall.

Since Sept. 1 a pilot program allowing alcohol sales and samplings has been running at 10 markets, including the Saturday Proctor market in Tacoma. From the perspectives of vendors, market managers and judging from the crowded booths, it's proving to be a success.

The pilot tasting program was authorized earlier this year by the Legislature and runs until Nov. 1, 2012. After that it's up to the Legislature to expand or discontinue the program.

More than 40 markets applied with 10 eventually being chosen by the state Liquor Control Board. "We were very lucky," said Karen Bowes, the project's manager for the Proctor market.

Since September, Bowes has scheduled one brewery, winery or cidery every Saturday and will continue through the market's final day of the year on Dec. 17. Each alcohol manufacturer commits to two consecutive Saturdays. This Saturday will feature Port Townsend wine and cider maker Eaglemount.

"This is about educating consumers and market-goers about Washington state cideries, wineries and breweries," Bowes said.

The program was not without controversy when it was announced earlier this year. Sen. Pam Roach, R-Auburn, said the Legislature needed to be consistent in how cigarettes and alcohol are treated in the state.

"We don't allow free samples of cigarettes," she said. "After all these years, now we want to serve free samples of alcohol?"

But wineries have long offered free on-site tastings. And - unlike tobacco - grapes, apples, wheat and hops are all Washington state products.

Liquor Control Board enforcement officers have been making unannounced visits to markets offering tastings, said agency spokesperson Anne Radford. She said the agency has received no complaints from the public. "Overall things are running smoothly."

Bowes said the program is consistent with the mission of farmers markets. Many of the producers grow their grapes and apples on their own farms. "It ties into the farmers market perfectly."

The alcohol producers seem to be happy with the program so far.

Finnriver Farm and Cidery in Port Townsend offered samples and sales on two Saturdays in October. Co-owner Crystie Kisler had only been able to offer sales at farmers markets until then.

"Sales were significantly stronger than other markets where we haven't done sampling. More people brought the product having had the chance to taste it," Kisler said.

Kisler said the visits also allowed her crew members to connect not just with customers but with retail outlets. They are now selling their product at the Pacific Northwest Shop, just steps away from the Proctor market. Shop owner Bill Evans said he has also began selling wines from Port Townsend's Fair Winds Winery and Lakewood's Stina's Cellars after their appearances at the market.

"The market reintroduced us to local winemakers," Evans said.

Stina's Cellars co-owner Perry Preston said he's had a farmers market endorsement on his license for several years but had never actually sold at one. "If (consumers) have never heard of you they want to taste your product before they commit to buying it."

Although alcohol sellers are allowed to pour up to 2 ounces, Preston was only pouring half ounce samples of his 2009 Petit Verdot and his 2010 Siegerrebe during his two visits in September. He'll return to Proctor on Dec. 10 and 17.

"It was well worth our going there as far as sales go," Preston said.

Consumers seem to be happy as well. During Finnriver's visit at Proctor people were lined up three deep sipping from tiny cups.

Finnriver will be back at Proctor in February. "We think our fruit wines will be very good Valentine's Day gifts," Kisler said.

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Information from: The News Tribune, http://www.thenewstribune.com