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Originally published Saturday, December 1, 2012 at 9:33 PM

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Fish is good, especially if you choose where it comes from

The benefits of fish in your diet should be weighed against the variety of sources.

Special to The Washington Post

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Most of us are probably aware that eating fish — which is low in saturated fat and high in protein, omega-3 fatty acids and such nutrients as selenium and vitamins D and B2 — is an important part of a healthful diet.

But it can be difficult to reconcile the knowledge that eating fish helps prevent heart disease, stroke and cancer, reduces hypertension and aids brain development with reports about elevated mercury levels in tuna and swordfish, and with recalls of fish tainted with listeria, salmonella and other dangerous bacteria.

And how to balance the experts who recommend eating eight ounces of seafood a week against those who raise health concerns about the rapidly growing number of fish raised in aquaculture farms?

“It’s not something that’s been exhaustively researched, but from the few studies out there on specific fish or incidents, we can put them together and get a picture that there is a possibly a real health risk to people if they are eating a lot of [farmed seafood],” says Meredith Moore, senior research and policy analyst for the nonprofit advocacy group Food and Water Watch.

Moore cites the heavy use of chemicals — including pesticides and antibiotic and antifungal drugs — in many aquaculture operations as a major concern. “There’s a lot that gets dumped into these facilities in order to try to keep fish healthy in really crowded conditions ... and those chemicals or residues can end up on or in the fish,” she says.

In addition to potential health problems from direct exposure to such toxins, Moore notes the documented rise of antibiotic-resistant bacteria in and around aquaculture facilities and in farmed seafood itself.

Several studies have also shown that farmed seafood contains higher levels of organic pollutants than wild-caught fish. These include dioxins, PCBs and metals such as mercury and lead, which have been associated with health issues.

Researchers attribute that, at least in part, to the diets of captive fish. “A lot of formulated feeds used on farms are ground-up smaller fish [from the ocean] that are then given to these fish to raise them, and somewhere in that process, they are consolidating the amount of environmental toxins,” Moore says.

For example, one study found that farm-raised salmon contained higher levels of organic arsenic than wild-caught fish, while another concluded that farm-raised blue fin tuna in Japan had higher concentrations of mercury than did wild counterparts.

We have no clear idea of how widespread such problems are, says David C. Love, science director of the Public Health and Sustainable Aquaculture Project at the Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future. That’s because most farmed fish sold in the United States is raised outside the country.

“Imported seafood is about 80 percent of [the seafood] that’s eaten in the U.S. It’s about 50-50 farmed versus wild-caught, but the FDA only inspects about 2 percent of what’s imported, which is almost nothing,” says Love, adding that when there is oversight, what’s documented is often worrisome.

The imports with the highest rate of violations? Shrimp or prawns, eel, crabs, catfish or pangasius, tilapia and salmon. The countries most likely to be cited were Vietnam, China, Thailand, Indonesia, Taiwan, India and Malaysia.

It remains to be seen what the health implications of this are, since there have been no good long-term studies on the topic.

Health questions aside, one consideration for seafood lovers is that the nutritional profile of farmed fish isn’t always as beneficial as that of wild-caught species, according to Andrew Weil, a physician who is director of the Arizona Center for Integrative Medicine. “When fish are penned, they don’t get normal exercise, so they don’t build up as much muscle protein as normal and may have lower protein levels,” he says.

So what’s a health-conscious consumer to do?

“It’s important to be aware of where your seafood is coming from,” says Love, who adds that this information is required by law to be available to consumers and should be prominently displayed in grocery-store seafood cases.

“Personally,” says Moore, of Food and Water Watch, “I try to eat as little farmed or imported seafood as possible. I eat local and wild as much as I can. ”

All of that said, most experts still maintain that eating any fish — farmed, imported or otherwise — is better than avoiding seafood entirely.

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