Serves eight to 10

½ cup kosher salt

4 tablespoons sweet paprika

2 tablespoons crushed red pepper

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 tablespoon fennel seed, crushed

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon whole cloves

1 teaspoon coriander seed

1 teaspoon allspice

2 lemons, halved

4 fresh bay leaves

1 onion, coarsely chopped

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

48 medium shrimp, shells cut down the back and veins removed

1. Fill a large pot with about 2 gallons of water. Add all ingredients except shrimp and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and continue to simmer over moderate heat for five minutes.

2. Add shrimp to pot and return to a simmer. Cover, remove pot from heat and let stand until shrimp are just cooked through, three to five minutes. Drain, discard the boil, and refrigerate shrimp until chilled, about one hour; peel. Serve on top of chowchow, drizzled with some of the vegetables’ pickling liquid, or on a platter with chowchow on the side.

Adapted from Brian Landry, Borgne, New Orleans, for The New York Times