Makes 10 to 12 cups

4 green tomatoes, diced, or 6 to 8 tomatillos, shucked and diced

4 mirliton (chayote squash), diced

½ head green cabbage, diced

1 cauliflower, cut into small florets

1 yellow onion, diced

2 red bell peppers, diced

½ cup kosher salt

4 cups white vinegar

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon powdered ginger

1½ teaspoons ground turmeric

2 tablespoons mustard seed

1 tablespoon celery seed

1 teaspoon red chili flakes

2 fresh bay leaves

1 cinnamon stick

1. Combine green tomatoes, mirliton, cabbage, cauliflower, onion and peppers in a large bowl. Add salt, mix to combine and let stand at room temperature for at least four hours. Drain vegetables.

2. Combine vinegar, sugar, ginger and turmeric in a large pot. Put mustard seed, celery seed, chili flakes, bay leaves and cinnamon stick in cheesecloth bag or sachet and add to pot. Bring liquid to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.

3. Add vegetables to pot and return to a simmer for 15 minutes; stir occasionally. Discard spice bag or sachet and transfer vegetables and liquid to a large jar or lidded container to chill until ready to use. Serve as a relish or as a salad.

Adapted from Brian Landry, Borgne, New Orleans, for The New York Times