There is not much to point these nostalgia-inducing sandwiches in an Italian direction, except the oregano, until you get to the toppings: provolone cheese and a generous helping of jarred giardiniera. Green peppers, standard in regular sloppy Joes, would do well here. And you could definitely up the spices, if you prefer stronger flavors.

Serves six

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 pound ground beef

1/2 cup red wine

1 can (14.5 ounces) Italian pear tomatoes, chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 ½ teaspoons dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

6 hamburger or other rolls, toasted

6 slices provolone cheese

Giardiniera

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion; season with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until beginning to soften. Stir in the garlic; cook, 1 minute.

Add the ground beef, stirring it into the onions and breaking it up; cook until browned. Stir in the wine, tomatoes and paste, oregano, red pepper flakes and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Taste for seasonings.

Serve on rolls, topped with a slice of provolone and a generous helping of giardiniera.

Nutrition per serving: 514 calories, 20 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 116 mg cholesterol, 61 g carbohydrates, 19 g protein, 689 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.