Makes about 6 generous servings

6 cups cubed bread

1 (10-ounce) package frozen spinach, thawed

1/2 white onion, chopped

2 tablespoons butter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)

6 ounces Roquefort or other blue-veined cheese, crumbled

3 cups whole milk or half-and-half

3 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

One 8- to 9-inch gratin dish or other baking pan, well buttered

Set a rack in the middle level of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

Scatter the bread cubes on a jellyroll pan and bake for about 15 minutes to dry them.

Meanwhile, wring the water out of the thawed spinach a handful at a time.

Cook the onion in the butter over low heat in a medium saute pan until it's soft and translucent. Stir in the spinach, season with a little salt and pepper, and cook until the spinach is no longer watery, about five minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the heavy cream if you're feeling indulgent, and cool slightly.

Add the Roquefort.

Whisk the milk with the eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Put the warm bread cubes in a large mixing bowl and fold in half the milk mixture, followed by the spinach mixture. Transfer to the prepared baking dish and pour over the rest of the milk mixture. Let the pudding rest for 10 or 15 minutes before baking.

Bake the pudding until set and the top has browned nicely, 45 to 55 minutes.

Cool on a rack for five minutes, then serve hot from the baking pan.

Note: To use fresh spinach, rinse 1 pound of baby spinach and put it in a large pan over high heat. Once the water on the spinach starts to give off a little steam, cover the pan and steam the spinach until it's wilted and cooked through, about five minutes, checking several times that it isn't boiling dry.

Drain and cool, then squeeze out and chop.

From "Nick Maligieri's Bread"