Makes 4 servings

1 medium butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeds removed

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2 to 3 sprigs thyme

2 cloves garlic, smashed with flat side of a chef's knife

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Kosher salt

4 cups chicken stock

1/2 onion, minced

1 cup Carnaroli (or arborio) rice

1 cup white wine

1 cup loosely packed, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Hazelnut oil for drizzling

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. Place each squash half on a square of aluminum foil and dot each with 1 tablespoon butter. Chop a few sprigs of thyme in half and add to the cavities along with 1 garlic clove each. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Wrap each half in foil, place on baking sheet. Roast until tender, 60-75 minutes. Unwrap and set aside to cool.

3. When squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh and put through a sieve to catch any fibers. You should end up with about 1 1/2 cups smooth purée.

4. Heat the stock in a saucepan and keep warm on the stove.

5. In a large sauté pan over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the onion and saute until soft but not colored, 2-3 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until the wine is absorbed by the rice, 5-6 minutes. Add a pinch of salt.

6. Add 1 cup of stock. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the stock is absorbed. Add another cup of stock, stirring, until absorbed, 5-6 minutes. Add the squash purée and stir to incorporate, then add another cup of liquid. When this stock is absorbed, taste the rice. It should still have some chew but be tender to the bite. If necessary, add the remaining cup of stock in stages until the rice reaches the desired consistency. Remove the pan from the heat and add the cheese and remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Stir gently and season to taste with salt.

7. Divide among four plates. Drizzle with hazelnut and serve.

From "Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen," by Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller.