Pop a caviar cube

Caviar is rather like Rice Krispies. You can get a lot of snap, crackle and pop as you bite down on those tiny fish eggs; the texture is all part of the fun.

So you might wonder why Petrossian, the posh Manhattan company selling all things caviar, is taking a chance with a new product called Caviarcubes. Pressed caviars are shaped into small squares and packed in olive oil. You get about 18 cubes (a little less than 3/4 ounce) to a jar, which costs $45 at petrossian.com.

The caviar looks like shiny, all-black dice. The texture is utterly smooth; think of an old-fashioned licorice whip. There's a distinct caviar flavor to the cubes, which is nice, but there's also a certain briny bitterness. It's an acquired taste, even for this devoted caviar lover.

Pressed caviar is salted and pressed roe and very different from fresh caviar, according to "The New Food Lover's Companion." It's often made from a combination of types, and sometimes with damaged eggs that couldn't be presented whole.

Petrossian suggests using these pressed caviar cubes as a topping for cocktail canapes, oysters or "baked spuds."

Serve with cocktails or a good beer.