Lynne Rossetto Kasper offers 3 steps to great gravy

Here's a guide to foolproof gravy:

Making gravy broth: After turkey goes into the oven, place the neck, giblets and wing tips in a 4- to 6-quart saucepan. Add 1 carrot, 1 stalk celery, 1 large onion and 2 cloves garlic, all chopped. Cover by 2 inches with 1/2 bottle white wine (inexpensive sauvignon blanc, fumé blanc or pinot grigio), 2 1/2 cups (20 ounces) canned chicken broth and water as needed. Simmer, partially covered, 2 to 3 hours. Broth will reduce. Keep solids covered with a little liquid.

Starting the pan gravy: For rich-tasting pan gravy, skip additions like Kitchen Bouquet or salt. Instead, put the turkey juices to work. Place the turkey on a platter, tent with foil and keep warm (it will be juicier for the rest). Skim fat from the pan juices. Set roasting pan over 2 high-heat burners. Start boiling down pan juices, scraping up any browned bits with a spatula. Gradually add the strained broth, a cup at a time. After 3 to 4 cups, continue boiling and stirring until you have 2 to 3 cups of rich, deep-flavored liquid.

No lumps, great taste: As liquid simmers, take a tall glass and add to it 1 generous tablespoon of flour. Avoid lumps by using a fork to gradually beat in 1/2 to 2/3 cup cold water. Beat until there are no lumps. You've made a slurry.

Whisk it into the bubbling pan liquid. Keep simmering and whisking until the gravy is smooth and thick enough to lightly coat a spoon. Taste. If you taste raw flour, simmer another minute. Season if necessary, pour into a sauceboat and serve.

Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table,"American Public Media's weekly national show. The program airs Sundays at 2 p.m. on KUOW-FM (94.9). Contact Lynne at www.splendidtable.org.