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LAURENCE CHEN

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Jon Rowley promotes the tastes we come to crave

On the beach at Totten Inlet near Olympia, Jon Rowley shows off a fresh oyster. As a consultant to fishermen and farmers for nearly three decades, Rowley has quietly become one of the country's premier tastemakers, guiding the revival of the Olympia oyster market and starting the craze over Copper River salmon.