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ALAN BERNER / THE SEATTLE TIMES

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Pilgrims Progress

The colors of this big tom's head intensify when he "gets emotional or worked up," says Keith Swanson about this heirloom turkey variety, a strain of the Unimproved Standard Bronze. In the turkey trade, unimproved, as in not changed, is a good thing -- as opposed to the overbred factory birds now dominating the market.